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TR2/3/3A Engine rebuild

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sp53

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Engine rebuild, well I took my engine block in to see if they could hone out the sleeves because of the rust. They basically did not want to deal with it because it was too iffy. The old timer there suggested a ball hone at home and see where that gets me. I had one and did that, and I think they will be ok because the rust seemed to be more of a varnish and the hone did not appear to take off much metal Perhaps, because of the type of metal the sleeves are made. Moreover, the sleeves slid out of the block. Anyways,I am thinking of having them do what they call “shake and bake” where they blast the motor with metal pellets and bake it then flush it out. I had that done once and worried about the pellets because I did find some in the first couple of oil changes, but the shop that did that work was having problems and soon went out of business.
If I go that route, they want all the plugs and cam bearings out, so I am looking for suggestions on cam bearing removal. Plus what I want to do is leave those two plugs in the back in place and work around them. Does that seem possible? The one is tin, but the other looks like aluminum or something.
 
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I have a set of 87mm piston and sleeves that only have about 8000 miles on them, if you want them pm me and they are yours.
 
I highly recommend that you skip all that.
The motor is all ready disassembled so get the shop to steam clean it and get a new sleeve, piston and ring kit.
Steve
 
Ball hones are like sanding your body work with little pieces of sandpaper taped to you finger tips.Not good.A glaze beaker flexible hone is much better, like block sanding,a ridged hone better yet.
Tom
 
I'm having a hard time with this picture. You want to do a full rebuild, but you're going to just hone the rust out of the cylinders and call them good enough? IMO you should pick one or the other. Either slap it together now (and expect to have it out again in a few years) or do it right. I've done a lot of the former, so I'm not knocking it, just don't fool yourself that you're "doing it right".

In other words, you may not be able to see those rust pits, but they are there. Machining (not just honing) to the next oversize is the only way to get rid of them.
 
Find a new machine shop. I have a great guy here in Fort Worth that I trust completely with my American iron. He won't touch my British parts. He acts like they are poison. You will have to find a shop that deals with the British parts. They are no harder to work with, but they are different. A shop has to be ready to set up for loose liners.

I am also not sure about baking a block. How hot are they heating it? Without care heating can cause warpage or cracks.
 
Well I guess they heat the motor to 500 degrees, I do know. Iam just cheap and I hate to throw away new liners and pistons just because theyare a little rusty, but maybe I should. Heck the manual talks about rotating the sleeves180 to get rid of piston slap, so there is some play somewhere. Every tr3 I havehad leaks oil and smokes a little anyway. I found a different machinist and he saidbring me out your stuff and I will measure it, and Tinman suggested he had somestuff that is not too bad, so I will see.
 
Thanks tinman I do not know what to say, those pistons and linerslook great. I am going to have to work hard to be as good of club member. I sayclub because this forum can be just like a club.
Thanks Steve
 
Steve - I'd suggest you file this one under "things to do right" if you plan to keep the car. The cost of new pistons and sleeves will be fairly modest compared to an over all rebuild.
 
SP53
I highly recommend that you change out the aluminum plug in back of block, if you hot tank or bake out your block.

I neglected to do so, and the leak resembled a rear seal leak. Cost me lots of time and money to remedy.

Super easy to replace and helps clean out oil gallery of sludge and debris if removed prior to block cleaning.

pat
 
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