Engine Rebuild + Dumb Questions

[AngliaGT]

I'm finally getting close to putting the engine back into the Cortina ('67 MKII 1500 GT).
What do you use for the oil pump gaskets,fuel pump,etc.?

- Doug

 

[TypeRboy]

If you are stuck, the gaskets for a small block chev fuel pump are just about the right size for the fuel pump actually Ford will work too.., but the oil pump gasket is Kent block only.. Try for one for a pinto 1600 or 2.0 liter from your friendly local auto parts dealer.

I'm surprised they didn't come with your bottom end gasket set

 

[kennypinkerton]

In a pinch, a roll of cork, and an X-acto knife will work too.

 

[SteveL]

I normally use card stock, as in greeting cards,
old birthday cards work well...

Put them on dry, as they absorb oil, they seal better...

SteveL

 

[AngliaGT]

What Meant,was wether to use sealants,or not.
And,if so,which ones?
I have all the gaskets for it.

- Doug

 

[SteveL]

I don't use sealants on the oil pump gasket, I have
used Gask-a-sinch, which is a lot like contact cement,
for the fuel pump gasket...

SteveL

 

[DrEntropy]

THIN film of Hylomar or RTV is my usual method. When I fab'd a blanking plate for the Alfa mechanical fuel injection pump I made a paper gasket from a Ferrari oil filter box... That'll confuse the natives on some future tear-down. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Deleted member 3577]

[ QUOTE ]
I made a paper gasket from a Ferrari oil filter box... That'll confuse the natives on some future tear-down. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ] /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif

 

[Ken G]

Re Dr. Entropy's remark about RTV, I want to suggest that above all else, ignore the instructions on the tube, which say squeeze out a bead all round where you need a seal. Assuming of course there are not very irregular surfaces, that leads to far too much material, which then squeezes out. Not only is the result unsightly from outside, but much worse, it means that there is cured RTV floating around inside. I suspect that my oil starvation problems are the result of oil passage blockage caused by RTV. I found that a thin layer, applied with a finger, was effective with little or none to squeeze out.

Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)

 

[DrEntropy]

Yes, Ken! Mebbe I should have emphasized "thin film" a bit harder? It ain't like toothpaste. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Guest]

I just put the front engine plate and timing cover back on the TR6 last night. Used Hylomar, thin film as Doc says on both sides of the gasket. That stuff is great, really makes a good seal. I used it on the oil pan last fall, not a drop has come out of that thing. Only problem is that I've only been able to find one parts store near me that has Hylomar on the shelf (Pep Boys).

 

[DrEntropy]

It's a bit difficult to convince folks that you can screw together a NON-leaking LBC with the proper techniques and materials. The 1750 in my Alfa is tight as a drum, the MGB engine also. Can't say that about the B's gearbox, but that will be addressed soon enough. Permatex ROCKS. The specialty stuff is pricey but worth the expense IMO. If you can find a good "bearing house" in your area Scott, they will likely be distributors of the entire Permatex line of products.

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
The specialty stuff is pricey but worth the expense IMO.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree completely. Of all the places to try and save a buck by buying a cheaper product gasket sealants is not the best idea. I'd much rather spend a few dollars more and have the piece of mind knowing that the thing will be tight and leak free for a long time to come, instead of have it blow at an inopportune time and place (which it will considering my close personal relationship with Mr. Murphy).