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Engine rebuild advice needed...

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LastDeadLast

LastDeadLast

Jedi Knight
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Ok, what started out to being a simple head gasket replacement to fix oil seepage is quickly turning into a rebuild. I’ve had the head redone courtesy of Richard Good with new valves/springs/seats/seals and roller rockers. I’ve already bought all the parts I would need for a rebuild save that of bearings (I don’t know the size until it gets machined).

Now the big part.. I’m really on the fence if I should attempt to build the motor myself or pay someone to do it. Looks like the machine work on the short block would run around $600.00 which includes clean, bore, crank/rod recondition, line bore and balanced, but to pay someone to assemble it would nearly triple the cost. I’ve built a couple Chevy motors in my time, but never a Triumph. I’ve looked at the manuals that I have (Bentley and Haynes) and it doesn’t look that bad, but I thought I’d ask for opinions from anyone who’s ever done this before I commit one way or the other. I consider myself a pretty competent mechanic and I’ve already rebuilt the entire front and rear suspension and the brakes of my little TR6, but what scares me is just my ignorance of the Triumph motor and how I could trash it unknowingly.

I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks,
Shannon
 
I rebuilt my engine about this time last year. The TR6 engine is very simple-don't be intimidated. I did have the machine shop install the crank so as to make sure thrust washer clearances were correct and to insure that the crank bearings were properly fitted. If you replace the timing chain and gears (which you should) make sure that you transfer the timing marks from the old gears to the new ones. Watch the orientation of the cam gear to camshaft. It is all too easy to get this 180 degrees off. On the back of the engine there is a rear seal cover bolt that requires a copper washer as it goes thru to the oil gallery. If you don't have a Bentley manual, get one. Above all use this forum it is a valuable resource.
Good luck
Mike Crane '71 TR6
 
Shannon, I don't know what your tool situation is, but I would invest in an inexpensive dial indicator with a magnetic base, and a cam degree wheel. With the degree wheel, you can index the cam perfectly, rather than relying on timing marks which have been known to be wildly inaccurate.
As with any engine, cleanliness during the rebuild is of utmost importance, as is close attention to detail. If you don't have the capability of taking accurate measurements, by all means let the machine shop install the crank, and have them measure the rod bearing clearances for you.
With the manuals you have, you should have all the required information at hand to do a quality job yourself.
Jeff
 
I've rebuild countless engines of all types and found that they are all build just about the same way. If you can pull the head without much trouble, rebuilding it from the ground up shouldn't be a stretch. All you need is a good manual. GOOD LUCK!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Shannon,
If you can lay your hands on the tools Jeff mentioned, you have a suitable engine hoist or equivalent, and somewhere to set the engine while you're working on it, you'll have no problem. I am about to start my freshly rebuilt 6 engine this coming Saturday, after having totally rebuilt it with new pistons about 3 weeks ago. It was a synch if you just follow the book and do your homework. If you've got a question or aren't sure about something, post here or ask someone who is knowledgable about these engines that you know. These engines are so simple, but they have a lot of little measurments and things to get right. You'll also need a competant machine shop to do any boring, turning, or honing that you might need done (and I'll bet you need 1 or more of the 3). Just remember: it's been done before [without it blowing up].
 
Fair enough... Thanks for your advice. I guess I've just got the jitters about this, but I'm gonna go ahead and build it myself. Something about doing it yourself makes you hold your head a little taller.

As for the tools, I have a good set hand tools, a dial indicator and a nice torque wrench..

Thanks for the vote of confidence, I've decided to document my build on a website that I'm putting together so wish me luck.

Thanks,
Shannon
 
[ QUOTE ]
Something about doing it yourself makes you hold your head a little taller

[/ QUOTE ]
Not to mention that wonderfully sweet sense of satisfaction when it fires up on the first revolution!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Jeff
 
Shannon, you didnt say what the head was milled to.....the 6 is begging for more compression.100 thou is a good start, but when you do be sure to get shorter pushrods to compensate for the reduced height....keeps the geometry right.
MD(mad dog)
 
Mad dog,

Yeah, I had the heads milled... I'm aiming for a mid-high 9.x:1 CR... I'm also getting the GP2 cam. I'm hoping thats a good combo. Thanks for the tip on the pushrods.

-Shannon
 
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