• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Engine overrun

Mikestr4

Freshman Member
Offline
What causes engine overrun when you turn car off?

I don't know what to start tinkering with. I did the following and still have problem.

I adjusted the valves, the mixture looks correct by examining plugs, put in electronic ignition, and adjusted timing.
 
Timing advanced a bit, carb throttle plates (butterflies) not closing completely on shutdown are a couple possibilities.
 
Hi Mikestr4
What year and model? Later TR6's had anti-run on valves that helped correct dieseling. The wiki has a set of articles under Triumph/Buckeye Triumph Org. that has a technical article on rebuilding carbs that also has theory.
here is an extract:
The last part of the breathing apparatus is the electrically operated anti run-on valve introduced on the
’73 TR6. Power from the ignition switch in the OFF position is feed through the ON position of the oil
pressure switch to the valve, #6 in the sketch; the valve operates when the ignition is turned off and
there is still oil pressure. The operated valve closes the external air input to the bottom of the canister via
tube #6 and instead connects tube #6 to the intake manifold via tube #7. The depression in the intake
manifold sucks air out of the canister and via tube #2 to the float chamber creating a depression in the
float chamber. This depression in the float chamber prevents fuel entering the carb via the jet thus
preventing run-on or dieseling. The valve releases a few second after the ignition is turned off when the
oil pressure drops.
FWIW
 
How's your idle rpm ?

I always had sporadic run-on problems with my TR3A; though it did get less after I rebushed the throttle shafts so the throttles would close reliably.

So I got in the habit of killing the engine with the clutch, just after turning the key off.

Hot spots (glowing deposits) in the combustion chamber are another cause.
 
TR3driver said:
Hot spots (glowing deposits) in the combustion chamber are another cause.


Yes, agreed. Perhaps its time to de-coke?

Does anyone actually do this anymore on a regular basis?
 
Don't really know the technicalities, but I think it is something to do with hot spots and fuel combusting without the ignition being on.
Two observations from myown car. Firstly, the engine ran backwards when it ran-on.
Secondly, I cured it by always making sure that the engine was idling at around 800 revs before I switched off. At anything above that, when the engine was hot, it would run-on.
I don't think modern fuel helps either.
 
Since I started using lead-free in 1990, I have never had run-on in my 1958 TR3A during 99,000 miles of driving. The engine temperature was often hot wen I shut off the engine and it never did it.

I removed the head in 2000 after 43,000 miles on the new engine (at 80,350 miles) to have exhaust valve seats installed for lead-free gas and the head was clean. There was nothing there to "de-coke". Again last spring when I rebuilt the engine, there were no deposits to create "hot spots" with the lead-free gas. This was 51,000 miles after the earlier time I removed the head.

If the head on your TR still has leaded gas residues in the combustion chamber, then these hot-spots might be the cause.
 
The ignition timing is likely too far advanced.
Has any work ever been done to the engine? higher compression from milled head or a wilder than stock cam can cause this also. Incorrectly set valve timing (because the timing chain not set right) also causes this.
 
Welcome to the Forum. You'll get answers here with a little interaction included at no charge.
 
The funny thing about run on with my two cars:

The TR3 has a TR2 head. The head was rebuilt with valves and seats for lead free about 14000 miles ago and that engine never runs on.

The TR4 has a complete TR3 engine with TR4 carbs and manifolds, both the head and bottom end have been rebuilt about 3000 miles ago and that engine runs on about 25% of the time.

So from this I conclude..... absolutely nothing! But at least this is some data for you.

Adrio
 
Back
Top