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Lutz Kramer

Lutz Kramer

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello from Germany!

I have just noticed that the crank nut on my 67 BJ8 sits a bit below the front yoke and very close to it, thus not beeing able to remove the fan belt. Besides I can see from some very little marks, that the nut had already hit the front yoke once in a while.

What would be the best way to solve this problem? How can I lift the engine? Is this to be done by modifying the engine mounting brackets by using spacers to lift it up or do I have to replace the 20 year old rubbers of the engine mounts?

Lutz
 
Besides the front motor mounts, the transmission mounts, also locate the engine fore and aft. There's also a stabilizer rod from the trans to the center of the chassis to keep the engine from moving forward.
bob
 
If the 'big nut' has hit the front yoke (crossmember?), then it's likely the tie rod on the gearbox/OD is either missing or the rubber bushes are shot (common, as the bushes usually get bathed with oil from the bellhousing weep hole and other leaks). Usually, the fan will impact the radiator if this happens.

As (the other) Bob noted, you can unbolt the engine mounts at the chassis, undo the tie rod if it's still there and you'll need to disconnect the throttle linkage to keep it from binding and you can lift the engine (I use a board under the pan). The crankshaft pulley nut will likely be very difficult to remove, as it should be torqued to 150 ft-lbs. You'll have to use an impact wrench and/or secure the engine from turning and use a big lever of some sort. Might be a good time to replace the engine mounts as well, and if you feel ambitious or have a leak, would be the time to replace the timing cover seal--it'll leak eventually--and, of course, belts and hoses.
 
As (the other) Bob noted, you can unbolt the engine mounts at the chassis, undo the tie rod if it's still there and you'll need to disconnect the throttle linkage to keep it from binding and you can lift the engine (I use a board under the pan). The crankshaft pulley nut will likely be very difficult to remove, as it should be torqued to 150 ft-lbs. You'll have to use an impact wrench and/or secure the engine from turning and use a big lever of some sort. Might be a good time to replace the engine mounts as well, and if you feel ambitious or have a leak, would be the time to replace the timing cover seal--it'll leak eventually--and, of course, belts and hoses.

That's excactly what I did and 7 years later I'm finally finished!
 
Thanks a lot for your suggestions. Since I had removed the gear box three months ago, I'm sure that the tie rod is still there and correctly mounted. As far as I remember you cannot move the trans too much to the front or aft since the wholes of the mounts where they are fixed to the frame give not very much space to play with.

What I found in the meantime is that the top rubbers of the engine mounts hit the big rubbers which is obviously not correct since there should be I believe a gap of a few millimeters. So I'm pretty much sure right now, that all of my engine mounts are shot.

The reason that I found the problem with the crank nut is, that I have to open the timing cover, because there is a strange high frequent noise coming from the front end of the engine. I don't think it's a lengthened chain, but may be it's - I don't know what the name ist - the metal plate that leads the chain along its way. It should have a rubber surface which might have been gone, so the chain might run on metal. I had a similar problem years ago with a Mercedes 280 E an it was exactly the same noise and the same fault. Otherweise it could be the cam shaft bearings. But I hope it's not!

So I'll have to replace the engine mounts and the timing cover seal anywhay. I'll let you know as soon as I've solved the two problems.
 
Lutz Kramer said:
Thanks a lot for your suggestions. Since I had removed the gear box three months ago, I'm sure that the tie rod is still there and correctly mounted. As far as I remember you cannot move the trans too much to the front or aft since the wholes of the mounts where they are fixed to the frame give not very much space to play with.

What I found in the meantime is that the top rubbers of the engine mounts hit the big rubbers which is obviously not correct since there should be I believe a gap of a few millimeters. So I'm pretty much sure right now, that all of my engine mounts are shot.

The reason that I found the problem with the crank nut is, that I have to open the timing cover, because there is a strange high frequent noise coming from the front end of the engine. I don't think it's a lengthened chain, but may be it's - I don't know what the name ist - the metal plate that leads the chain along its way. It should have a rubber surface which might have been gone, so the chain might run on metal. I had a similar problem years ago with a Mercedes 280 E an it was exactly the same noise and the same fault. Otherweise it could be the cam shaft bearings. But I hope it's not!

So I'll have to replace the engine mounts and the timing cover seal anywhay. I'll let you know as soon as I've solved the two problems.
Click to expand...
When I overhauled my engine I was told that the timing cover hole could be slightly off-center. I checked it and it was. I ground off the offending metal. Not saying this is your problem but a heads-up to look for the problem when overhauling the engine.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
If the 'big nut' has hit the front yoke (crossmember?), then it's likely the tie rod on the gearbox/OD is either missing or the rubber bushes are shot (common, as the bushes usually get bathed with oil from the bellhousing weep hole and other leaks). ....
Click to expand...
The rubber tie rod bushings should be replaced with urethane bushings. They survive oil better.
 
Since I had time now to change the engine mounts the problem has been solved. The engine front part and with it the crank nut is sitting now about
1½" higher. So everything is fine again.

Thanks a lot for help and suggestions

Lutz
 
Bob_Spidell said:
The crankshaft pulley nut will likely be very difficult to remove, as it should be torqued to 150 ft-lbs. .
Click to expand...

Bob,

Where did you get the idea that the crankshaft nut should be torqued to 150 ft lbs?
 
BoyRacer,

as far as I know in the factory they used a slogging wring wrench or impact wrench with a big hammer, they never used a torque wrench at least for this nut. Yesterday I read in another forum, that they go for 75 ft lbs???
 
BoyRacer said:
Bob,

Where did you get the idea that the crankshaft nut should be torqued to 150 ft lbs?
Click to expand...

I thought I had read that somewhere, but now I can't find the reference (I may have confused it with the pinion flange nut or something else). Please disregard my comment (but, they do seem to be cranked on pretty tight).
 
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