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Engine Error Code - Fuel 17

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J

JohnPal

Freshman Member
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1992 VandenPlas - Engine code "Fuel 17" and "Check Engine" light showing up suddenly. Search for that particular code comes with "throttle potentiometer failure".

Would like to know if anyone has had a similar problem and how difficult it was to correct.

Any helpful comments or suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
That was one of the first codes that appeared on my 94 XJS, V12 and required the replacement of the TPS. You may not need to replace yours and I would try to dial it in before replacement. I also don't know what the voltage should be but that information should be easily found out from the JCNA website forum. It's a different part on the 4.0 engines and not nearly as expensive. The TPS for the v12 was over $300.
 
The problem with the XJ40 TPS is that in a fit of brilliant engineering they mounted it on the bottom of the throttle housing, and the smut from the breather collects around the throttle plate, and drips down into the TPS. If you remove the elbow, you can just barely get to the bottom of the housing and remove the little tiny bolts. I have had minor success with CAREFULLY drilling a tiny hole in the housing, and flushing it with electrical cleaning solvent. This gets you a temporary reprieve at best. Clean both sides of the throttle plate and housing while you are in there. Then set the pot to the correct voltage, and that should do it. You can reset the CE light by turning on the key and pulling the "instrument cluster" fuse from the fuse block in the center console. Wait 15 to 30 seconds and re install fuse. Once you start the car then, light should be off.
 
Jesse said:
in a fit of brilliant engineering they mounted it on the bottom of the throttle housing, and the smut from the breather collects around the throttle plate, and drips down into the TPS.
Click to expand...

Not sure how it came to be, BUT: Ford did this with <span style="font-style: italic">their</span> TPS in about the same years... :devilgrin:

Coincidence? :smirk:


OH! And CRC 2-26 works pretty well as a "flush". :wink:
 
Coincidence??? Or a diabolical plan to annoy future owners???Or did someone's brother in law have the TPS franchise??? What say you... Coincidence... Or is it????( Note: sinister voice, and sitting with hands together with fingertips twitching .....
 
Excellent suggestions everyone, I will try to clean it and reset it as suggested. Will post back with the results.

Thanks.
 
Since car bodies don't tend to turn to rust dust in 4-5 years anymore they gotta do something to make you replace it....
 
The potentiometer is in a very difficult to reach location, on the bottom of the throttle body. Since the oil filter is beneath it, it is hard to reach even with the vehicle elevated.

I decided to do an oil change as well, (to justify removing the oil filter). Even with the oil filter removed, it made it only a bit easier to reach with a long screw driver. The potentiometer was very dirty and loose.

Verified the potentiometer had no fault; .5 volts with the ignition key turned on, (engine not running) and with the throttle on idle. This voltage must be checked on the appropriate electical contact point.

On an alternate contact point, I verified voltage variations from .20 to .5 volts when activating the throttle (driver demand).

Afterwards, cleaned potentiometer with a light degreaser, tightened screws, replaced oil filter/oil, and disconnected battery to reset check engine light.

All is good now.

Thanks for the tips.
 
:lol:

just saved yerself a TON!!! :thumbsup:

...now would be a good time to ferret out a replacement.

Jus' sayin'.
 
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