• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Engine cuts out

higgins

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
My 100/6 is experiencing a problem for which I need your help.

When I slow down and declutch from third to second, for ex. when coming to a stopsign, the revs drop extremely fast and the engine cuts out. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif

Someone mentioned that this could be an electric fault /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif

The engine has been overhauled and the car has been converted to negative earth with a new alternator more than two years ago. The problem has only arisen recently.

Any suggestions and ideas are like always welcome

regards

Higgins
 
Clogged fuel filter.

Clogged fuel pick-up.

Loose fuel line fitting at tank or somewhere.

Set timing on valves, then dwell, points etc.

Check your plugs visually comparing front two to rear two, they should look the same.

Check spark wires (loose at coil?/missing brass washer?)

Check battery connections.

Check all ignition related connections.

Look for shorted/frayed/worn wires inside distributor cap.

Bad rotor / Cap?

It is probably something very simple Higgins.

You'll find it.
 
I experineced a similar issue where my Healey engine would suddently cut out, not restart with repeated attempts, then suddenly start as if nothing was wrong. Problem turned out to be inside the distributer. A screw that secures the points to the distributer plate had come loose and was causing intermittant shorting.
 
Sounds like the point-gap is too small.

From the initial "tune-up" and contact point installation, the rub-block wears down and the gap closes; some brands are notoriously worse than others.

When the engine speed slows down, there's barely enough dwell to keep the thing alive. I'd check the point gap first (.014-.016").
 
Hi bighly,

good list. Thanks. I'll get on it tonight.



Hi nevets,

interestingly enough, my car starts up straight away again but I'll also check out your suggestion.


Hi Randy,

I'll check that out first thing.

many thanks for now

Higgins
 
Did you check the oil in the dashpots? That would be my first check. Insufficient oil there allows the piston to close too quickly.
 
Hi Higgins, it could simply be that you have the carbs set too Lean.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Cutlass said:
So, my dear Higgins, what was the problem?

Unfortunately, I haven't gotten around to checking the car over so far /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

Been busy doing other things ( /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif)
I'll let you know as soon as I've found the problem /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/angel.gif
 
While you are having that beer, just look at the low voltage wire between the coil and the outside of the dizzy. Had a similar problem in the BJ7 and when cold all was OK but when things warmed up the engine cut out, turned out to be a frayed wire.

Bob
 
Back
Top