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Engine back in!

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Simon TR4a

Simon TR4a

Jedi Knight
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Finally have the rear suspension, diff and propshaft installed, and yesterday got the repainted engine and transmission back into the chassis.
I am tempted to keep going, adding radiator, exhaust system etc, but I think it will be easier to put the body back on if I leave these items off.
It is starting to look like a car again, and there's a lot more room in the garage.
Simon.
 
Very positive Simon. Depending on work this week, I will try to pop over to take a look. You are making great progress.
More room in the garage? Ya right.

Paul
 
Congrats Simon,
You are two steps ahead of me. I will be reinstalling all suspension, brakes, plumbing etc. next week. Can't wait to get a rolling chasis again and to have all these parts out of my home office!
 
Hi Simon,

That's great progress!

However, I strongly suggest installing everything you possibly can while the body is off the frame. That's the way Triumph built the cars in the factory and it's much easier to fit the exhaust, brake lines, fuel lines, etc., etc. while you can access both the top and the bottom.

Take a look here if interested, at my TR4's rolling chassis. It's an earlier ladder frame, of course, but otherwise only minor differences. You'll find a few additional body installation photos in a folder there.

Of course, the steering column was not installed. The Weber carbs/K&N filters were the only things actually removed before the chassis was rolled under and the body dropped on. The quick/easy way to do that was simply to loosen the manifold bolts at the head and lift it all out in one piece. It might be possible to leave SU or ZS carbs/manifolds in place, I don't know. But, it's easy to remove them along with the manifold, too.

The parking brake lever was loosened so that it would stand straight up to let the body drop on. The alternator was loosened to get maximum clearance. Everything else - including radiator, oil cooler, even the distributor, gear shift lever and the gearbox cover in the cockpit - were in place. Working solo, I took it slow and easy with a pair of chain hoists, but there were no problems dropping the body onto the frame.

The carbs & intake manifold were reinstalled. The rest of the brake and clutch hydraulic lines got hooked up. The fuel lines are now complete. The body will be coming off again for final repaint, so I'm not installing the new wiring harness yet.

One thing to watch.... I almost got into trouble by failing to measure how much clearance was needed under the body, to roll the chassis in place. Turned out that 34" was necessary. But, I was lucky. The chain hoists managed exactly 35". Whew!

Keep up the great work!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
Thanks for the encouragement, guys!
Alan it was your pictures that got me wondering about the radiator; when I took the body off I removed the grille and radiator, which were damaged anyway, and also the header and inlet manifold complete with carbs. Now I know it can be done with the rad. in place I will do a bit more assembly while the body goes out for paint.
I have the hydraulic lines back in except for the two from the master cylinders, of course. I plan to trailer the chassis over to Midas to have the exhaust and hangers installed, can't wait to see the reaction; the younger guys have probably never seen a car that comes apart like a TR!
In my case I didn't use a hoist, my son and I simply lifted the body, (with some grunting), and tied up the ropes to attach it to hooks and pulleys from the joists of the garage. Since it didn't have any fenders, bonnet, boot, doors or windscreen it was only abot 200 pounds or so, and he's pretty strong so I took the front, he got the heavy end!
Thanks again, Simon.
 
Hi again Simon,

Yeah, a stripped body doesn't weigh all that much and can be lifted by hand pretty easily.

You say the doors were removed, did you cross-brace the openings?

I ask because, when I reach that point, I plan to rig up some bolt-in cross bracing. It will probably be two tubular braces that go from the hoodstick mounting points near the top of the B-post to the windscreen mounting points under the dash, near the top of the A-post. Then, I'd add a brace or two across the cockpit. Maybe an X-shape.

Pretty sure that will be adequate, but I've been looking at other ideas. I don't like most welded-in bracing I've seen, and I think it's important the door openings are kept clear so the doors can be installed and removed repeatedly during panel fitting and tweaking.

Cheers!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
Alan,
I rigged bolt-on cross braces to my six when I pulled the body tub and put it on a wooden dolly. Using pre-drilled angle steel purchased from the local Home Depot I bolted into the body wing mounting holes fore and aft of the door opening. Note; all body wings and doors had been removed. I then attached braces across the cockpit directly to these parallel supports.
 
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