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Emergency Bonnet Release Install Q's.

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MadRiver

MadRiver

Jedi Knight
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Ok, all the replies to my prior post have convinced me to install my emergency bonnet release tomorrow! I have a couple of questions, though:

I recall seeing a post (can't seem to find it using search) where someone installed the emergency release, and at one point the lever flipped forward and jammed the latch. I recall seeing photos of someone using a stop to prevent that from happening. Anyone else remember that string?

In the meantime, I've just re-read the instructions on my kit (from Macy's) and I have to admit that despite my law degree, I'm more visual when it comes to technical stuff. Show me how to do something, and I can do it. Make me read about it, and I get lost! I must have been on the phone with my father ten times today when replacing my brake rotors. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Anywho, I'm confused as to the following: I understand that the spacer goes through the large hole on the Macy's lever, and the screw goes through the spacer. Does the washer go between the Macy's lever and the car's latch bracket, and then the nut goes inside the latch bracket?

Sorry for so many questions!

Thanks!
 
Hi Bill,
It sounds to me that you have the assembly sequence down perfectly. After you have it installed make certain that the Macy's lever can not be pulled beyond the bonnet catch lever. If it does slip past there you will have to install the small stop screw and nut that came with your kit.
After you install this release you will absolutly love it!
Good Luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
The instructions are good, actually. I installed it exactly as shown, using the spacer and washer as shown. The washer goes on the front side, not the back side. So, yes, you are correct.

Now, yes, there is also a slight design defect or issue. If you use the emergency Macy's mechanism to open the bonnet(it should only be for an emergency)two issue exist. First, you will "rub" a bit harshly on the stock lever and actually wear the surface a bit. I didn't like seeing that.

Second, depending on how absolutely and perfectly you align the Macy's lever with the stock lever protruding from the latch mechanism, there may be enough clearance to allow the Macy's lever to jam underneath the stock lever when opening the bonnet with the stock lever. Gravity just lets it fall under the stock lever.

It happened numerous times to me during test runs. No big deal, I just manually put it back in place.

However, to avoid this from happening in the future--this may sound extreme--I used a spring to keep pressure on the Macy's lever at all times to counter the effects of gravity.

Simple: I just bought a six inch spring, slid the spring over the Macy's vertical pull bar that leads through the interior firewall, and placed a steel washer on each side of the spring inside the engine compartment.

I then depressed the upper washer to create tension, and used a tiny lead cable clamp from Ace Hardware on the Macy's bar on the top side of the upper washer. This assures that at all times the Macy's lever is under pressure, pushing that lever out of the way from the stock lever. But one more thing--it also prevents the Macy's mechanism from rattling.

It works great.

Good Luck.
 
Not being that familiar with the "Macy lever" save only seeing it in a photo somewhere in this forum, I cannot comment on it's action except to say that it should be the same as my own homemade version copied from 6-Pack. What I did to prevent any problems was to fabricate the bolt holding the lever in place from a "shoulder" bolt that allowed me to use a Nyloc nut (with some Loctite) and two washers (on each side of the lever, between the nut and the lock housing). The nut jambs against the shoulder and the whole nut-washers-bolt assembly rotates freely but with almost no play. My lever arm rotates on the shoulder surface of the bolt. (That is one reason to have a tray of junk nuts and bolts, took a bit of digging to find the right shoulder bolt and cut it to size) Where I think my version works well is the design of the arm that engages the stock lock lever. I spent more than a few minutes fine-tuning the cam action of my lever to where there is zero binding from one end of the action to the other. It is impossible for my lever to jamb because of the length of the arm. It never unengages the lever, is always in contact with it. Curious that the maker of the Macy (Macy?) device would suggest to use his mechanism for emergency only. I never use my stock cable, ever. Or we all on the same page here or am I missing something?




Bill
 
Thanks so much, guys. I'll have to play around with it.

[ QUOTE ]
If it does slip past there you will have to install the small stop screw and nut that came with your kit.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmmm. Mine didn't come with an extra stop screw. However, I have an extra cable stop from my heater valve -- I may use that on the pull rod to make sure it won't slip down too far.

Wish me luck!!
 
Yes, I should clarify. The Macy's set up is great and can be used anytime. I just prefer to keep it as an emergency option. Mine didn't come with an auxilliary set screw or anything to stop it from sliding under the stock lever. And, yes, I agree that if one were to build a version with a slightly longer arm (or maybe installed the original with a tighter clearance) the issue of jamming might be avoided.
 
Dan Masters has a killer back up for his 6 or his 8 . Hey Dan I lost my pic of your set up, can you send me a new one?
don
 
Howdy all!

Here's a photo of what I did to prevent it from being pulled too far down and getting jammed. I used a spare cable stop -- I had to drill it out to fit the rod. I tested it all afternoon, and thus far it won't jam or interfere with the operation of the regular hood release. I'm very pleased!

Thanks for all the suggestions!
 

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Looks good. You got the lever clearance pretty tight, too, I see. Mine is just like yours, except I put a spring below the clamp to keep pressure heading back up. I may like yours better, though. Less "stuff."
 
[ QUOTE ]
Interesting hoses ...

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif I'm gradually replacing all the hoses with a new set -- I assume the bottom hose was the green TR6 color. You should have seen the original, 38-year old hose that the black one in the photo replaced -- it had the yellow stripes and all, and still held water without leaks! However, I replaced it when the new heater valve went in.
 
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