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Electronic vs. Points

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M

MGB7509

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What are the advantages and disadvantages of having an electronic ignition vs. the points? Id use this with a 32/36 DGV on my 75'. Let me know what you think.
 
Here we go! Welcome to the BCF BTW :smile:
 
Thanks Vince. The end links you sent me look good on the car after some paint!
 
Consistent 60 degree dwell angle...
Lack of maintenance.
Not really effected by rotor wobble.

Drawback...
Don't leave IGN on w/ Pertronics
 
*FZZzzzT!* if ya do. :frown:

Nothin' "wrong" with 'em, per-se, just more money for replacement... and the risk of bein' stuck if it poops out on ya "outside th' yard" unless you have an alternative unit aboard.
 
Yep...I'm using Mallory now and have to bring the entire mounting plate along as a spare.
(Rather than just the points)

That's like 2 extra onces of weight :cryin:
 
How many $US, Dave? :devilgrin:
 
I knew the name looked familiar but was not sure. I'm running points in my GT and Pertronix in my Roadster. There was quite a thread about this that I started last year that caused quite a stir (why I poste "Here we go!") Pertronix are supposedly very reliable but when the crap out, you are SOL and stuck on the side of the road unless you have a spare Dizzy or points set up that you can pop right in. Right now my GT is running a bit off and I can only think of the Dizzy that might be causing it. Jeff (Advancedistribtor) is going to build me another with Pertronix and we'll see how much better, or not, she runs.

my2p
 
I bought my first TR6 in 88. It had point wobble. i.e. the bearings and lobe faces were worn. At that time no one rebuilt the distributors. A new distributor was beaucoup bucks. More than I wanted to spend on a driver.

So I installed the Allison(now Crane) optical pickup ignition, later added to it with an MSD amplifier.

It is great. Good strong ignition, ALWAYS. Must use a good rotor and cap. Bosch caps and rotors don't last with Crane and MSD, not nearly as long as Accel or Lucas.

Never have to worry about wear on the distributor as the optical pickup compensates for it. Now if the bearing finally goes bye-bye and I can take the top of the shaft and knock it side to side and touch something, then I know it's time for a rebuild. Now that Advanced is in business, I may get around to having him rebuild it some year. He might also be a good source as, I understand, he builds the distributor with whatever primary ignition you want; points, condensor, petronix, allison. etc.
 
<span style="font-weight: bold">Electronic ignition:</span>

Advantages: Lower maintenance because there are no points to adjust.

Disadvantages: That they are far more sensitive to electrical problems, and when they fail they do so without warning and are not repairable.

Moot point: They are not affected by distributor wear as points are, but if the distributor is so worn that points cannot function properly, then it should be rebuilt anyway.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Points:</span>

Advantages: They are easily serviced on the road should something fail or go out of adjustment. They are also very inexpensive to replace if something does fail.

Disadvantages: Require periodic adjustment and / or replacement.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Other notes:</span>

Points adjustment is typically done at each tune-up and replacement every 10-20,000 miles of normal use.

I run points in five MGs and electronic ignition in one. In the past few years, I've had one condenser go bad on a points car, and one electronic ignition module fry. The two parts were equally easy to replace, but the condenser cost a few dollars and the electronic module cost 80 dollars.

There are the facts, you decide which is best for you!
 
I never was much for electronic ignition after my CJ7 Jeep let us down out in Utah about 50 miles from nowhere. Thank goodness I never venture out that far without a CB radio. I told a fellow what was wrong and he brought us a used electronic ignition control. We thanked him, I think a hundred times, paid him for the control, and gave him 50 bucks for his trouble. Put on a new one later and put the used one in the tool bag. Funny thing was, he didn't want the 50 bucks. Said he was just being neighborly. Some real nice people in Utah! I love that state!
happy0034.gif
 
One Point:

Due to accurate and precise triggering, the electronic units tend to give a hotter (higher kV) spark.
This can allow you to run a bigger plug gap.
That can make a difference in normal running as well as idling.

My race Spridget (with big, pumper carb set rich) would load up quickly with points ignition and 0.025" plug gap. It also didn't start real great.
With no other changes (other than a shift to 0.035" plug gap), it never fouls plugs with the Pertronix system (now about 7 years old). Also, starts better.
I keep a spare distributor with points in my spares-box for the racer, but I've never needed it. It would be easy to carry just the points & condensor if one wanted to switch back to the old system while "on the road" in a street car.

My '69 MGB has points. It's a stock engine and runs and starts fine with the 0.025" plug gap, so I feel no need to change it for now.
 
I replaced the points in my '77 with a Crane unit and changed the coil to a crane as well. I haven't had to touch it for at least 20,000 miles and it is still running sweet. My vote is for the electronic ignition vs. points. I've had to replace too many points in my B's. First place I go to look when they started to run rough. :thumbsup:
 
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