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electronic Ignition

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Raymond

Raymond

Jedi Hopeful
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so my 69 has a missfire at about 3500rpm and it stops pulling
it will go like stink up until 3000-3500 then if just sputters and spits let off on the gas a little and all is well

so im thinking beside a major tune up/valve check maybee i should switch to electronic ignition perhaps a whole new ignition system? mallory or msd? any ideas?
 
I would recommend finding the cause of the problem before replacing major components or modifying the ignition system. Once the car is running properly, you will have a proper base to work from.

Just FYI, in good order the stock ignition system is very good and quite reliable. I drive my completely stock '67 as a daily driver and have no issues whatsoever. My '65 has gone well over 300,000 miles on the stock ignition and electrical system also, most of that in daily driving.
 
the red line and beyond... though going beyond the red line may have serious ramifications.
 
The engine will easily rev to the point that it blows, so pay attention to your tachometer. With a '68 engine, your power band is most likely between 3500 and 5200 RPM. These engines are perfectly happy cruising at 2000 RPM as well, so choose how you push the engine based upon your driving habits. It is not recommended, nor is there any reason, to push it into the orange or red zone on the tach unless the engine has been modified to handle such high RPMs.
 
When was the last time it had a real good, thorough tune up?
 
I dont know when its been tuned if ever. the engine was rebuilt right before i bought it and when i got it it ran but not well. i ran it around town for a few weeks and havent done anything to it except take it to the body shop for rust repairs and paint.
im just trying to plan ahead for the spring when i get it back. my thought was a good tune, check the vales, clean the carbs and maybee change the coil dist. ect. out for electronic ignition for better spark and less maintnance
 
[ QUOTE ]
so my 69 has a missfire at about 3500rpm and it stops pulling
it will go like stink up until 3000-3500 then if just sputters and spits let off on the gas a little and all is well


[/ QUOTE ]
This would normally indicate a shortage of fuel for whatever reason.
D
 
If it's been sitting that long, it will probably run no better with EI installed. You need to revive the car! Clean out the carbs, file the points and plugs, and check all your tune-up items including points gap, plug gap, valves and timing.

When I got my TC, it ran terribly. I planned to pull the carbs and ignition system apart and rebuild everything. Fortunately for me I couldn't wait to drive the car, so I drove it the way it was. After pushing the car through it's paces in the local canyons for a few days, it ran beautifully. I drove the car several thousand more miles before even thinking of a tune-up!

Just food for thought. It's easy to get gung-ho and start replacing parts, but often the money can be better spent elsewhere. Regular use is more important than maintenance!

EDIT: Dave's post made me realize I never really read the first post that well. I agree it sounds like fuel delivery. Replace the in-line fuel filter which should be located somewhere between the pump and the carbs. Make sure you have adequate fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line at the carbs and pumping fuel into a glass jar. You should get a flow of about 2 to 3 pints per minute.
 
If you figure it out, please let me in on the secret. My '70 B/GT has the same problem at the same RPM point. I retimed to 15 degrees this weekend. Before that (it was at about 22 BTDC), it would top out at 4500, but bad run-on led me to retard. Now at 3500 RPM it tops out and starts backfiring. When I retimed, the mark fluttered, which is supposed to be the sign of a worn distributor. I ordered a replacement distributor with Pertronix from Moss, but it's on back order. If you figure out a cheaper fix, pass it on.
 
Before replacing anything, try a totally different timing light. Some of them will only work correctly with a resistor plug wire in place for the timing pickup. Sometimes the flutter is in the timing light, not the distributor.
D
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you figure it out, please let me in on the secret. My '70 B/GT has the same problem at the same RPM point. I retimed to 15 degrees this weekend. Before that (it was at about 22 BTDC), it would top out at 4500, but bad run-on led me to retard. Now at 3500 RPM it tops out and starts backfiring. When I retimed, the mark fluttered, which is supposed to be the sign of a worn distributor. I ordered a replacement distributor with Pertronix from Moss, but it's on back order. If you figure out a cheaper fix, pass it on.

[/ QUOTE ]
Have you tried replacing the condenser? Try a couple of them. Quality control is very poor on them and sometimes it takes two or three before you get one that works properly in your car.
 
Back to what I said: total & complete tuneup - replacing all items normally covered under "Maintenance"
 
Well Raymond, you might take good look at the air cleaners on the carbs if they are clogged up with dirt they can produce similar results.--Keoke
 
well the air cleaner arent on the car thats something im going to order from Tony and the Gas is fresh

im thinking Tony has the right idea a complete through tune up and then see what happens
 
Yup. "There are no shortcuts". Unfortunately.
 
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well the air cleaner arent on the car

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That's why it won't rev beyond 3500.

re-install the air cleaner and it will run fine. The air cleaner restricts air flow. The carb is tuned to the restricted flow; when the air cleaner is removed, the carb runs lean.

I would still perform the prescribed maintenence as everybody else recommended.

re: your original question. There are many options for electronic ignition.

first would be a later model stock unit. I find them to be clunky and expensive.

second would be a super-duper high performance system - allison, MSD, crane, mallory. They may offer some performance increase, but they're awfully expensive.

third would be a pertronix setup. this replaces the points, and connects to the stock coil. I personally love 'em - they're cheap ($65-ish) and leave the rest of the ignition system stock. Very clean installation, and easily done in under an hour (after you've done one, it's a 15 minute job)

just my opinion. some will disagree with me - there are many options for ignition, and I wouldn't propose that my favorites should be everybody else's too......
 
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