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Electrical Issues Following LED Bulb Replacement

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Rnussey4009

Rnussey4009

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I have replaced all the lights on the car with LED BULBS, and I have replaced the flasher with a new electronic flasher. The issue I am having is with the turn signals and the hazard warning. I have checked and rechecked the wiring of the flasher. It has power to it and the correct wires according to the wiring diagram are located on the flasher correctly. When I go to check the right and left turn signals, both the right and left lights flash. I even went back and reversed the two outgoing wires, and when I turn the ignition switch the lights flash on and off without touching the turn signal switch, so I put them back where they belonged.

Everything worked correctly before I changed the flasher.

One question I have is, is there a flasher switch to turn on the hazard warning lights? I cannot find one on my car.

The second question is, should I just replace the electronic flasher?

I have checked and rechecked and now am at a loss. I am new to this forum and hope someone has a good idea.
 
Step 1 - are you asking about your 1967 Austin Healey 3000BJ8?

Assuming it's the BJ8, just wondering if there is actually a hazard warning flasher on that car. I doubt it had one when new! Do you have a wiring diagram for the BJ8?

If your new flasher unit has connections for a hazard warning, but there's no hazard warning - then what are the flasher wires connected to?

Thanks.
Tom M.
 
The flasher does not have any connection points for the flasher it has the same connection points as the flasher that was removed, you answered the question about a flasher switch or hazard flashing lights. The new flasher has an external ground.
 
I have a wiring diagram for the BJ8, it is positive ground and my car is a negative ground system. The external ground is because the body of the flasher is plastic.
 
Thanks. Did your BJ8 have a hazard warning flasher when you first got the car? Is there a hazard warning flasher shown on your wiring diagram?
TM
 
To the best of my knowledge it did not have a warning flasher and there is no hazard flasher shown on the wiring diagram.
 
What I am beginning to think is the relay contact from input L IS CLOSED, and when I put the wires from P TO L AND THE LIGHTS FLASH it indicates that the contact is closed and the same thing happens when you close the contact on the turn signal switch, does this make sense?
 
I just got finished checking the relay contacts and they are both open, when I engage the turn signal switch both lights are blinking and I checked the voltage and both read the same, it does in both right and left positions of the turn signal switch, not sure where to go, I could order another relay but beginning to believe it is not the relay. Do you know what the voltage should be at the input of the relay?
 
I got the problem some what resolved, I contacted Classic Car LEDs in England and this a problem when changing to LEDs, you have take the green/purple wire off of pole P on the flasher and ground it, it has to do with bleed through current which will light the LEDs, this does effect incandescent lights since the resistance is much higher on an incandescent bulb, the only problem you end doing this is you have to change the wiring on the indicating lights on the dash, since when move the turn signal switch to the right the left hand turn signal lights and vis a versa for the left turn signal, I have not done this yet since it will require to remove the speedometer from the dash to get to the indicator lights. Classic Car LEDs was a big help in getting me straight, thank you for you interest and help trying figure this out, another mystery of AH AND THE WIRING. Bob Nussey
 
There is no warning flasher on the car, it would have to be added and a toggle switch added to have hazard flashing lights, to get everything working correctly I have to rewire the indicator lights on the dash, I you would like a copy of the solution I can post it on the forum if you think it would be of interest to others converting to LEDs. Thank you for help.
 
The turn signal circuit has a design that requires sufficient current flow to operate correctly. There is not enough current with the LED lamps for it to work properly. I had to add ballast resistors to each side circuit to increase the current and allow it to operate as designed. These are pretty high wattage resistors.

I installed mine in the trunk on each turn signal lamp. I bought some dual wire bullet connectors to insert in parallel with the lamp. You will need to buy some of the bullet connectors if you do it that way. It can be done with wire nuts or solder and tape, but not as "clean." If you don't add the ballast resistors, the turn signals will all blink at the same time like a hazard warning. The LED lamps are much brighter than the incandescent.

1967 BJ8
 
Goldie said:
The turn signal circuit has a design that requires sufficient current flow to operate correctly. There is not enough current with the LED lamps for it to work properly. I had to add ballast resistors to each side circuit to increase the current and allow it to operate as designed. These are pretty high wattage resistors. I installed mine in the trunk on each turn signal lamp. I bought some dual wire bullet connectors to insert in parallel with the lamp. You will need to buy some of the bullet connectors if you do it that way. It can be done with wire nuts or solder and tape, but not as "clean". If you don't add the ballast resistors, the turn signals will all blink at the same time like a hazard warning. The LED lamps are much brighter than the incandescent.
1967 BJ8
Click to expand...
I put the resistors next to the 8-way relay box.
 
I ended up taking the light green/purple off the relay and grounding it to the chassis and then switched the wires to the turn signal indicators so they match the turn signals.
 
I should have mentioned that I also replaced the blinker relay with an electronic version. The original is a bimetallic strip that operates with heat from the current that passes through it. I looked at possible rewiring the circuits but decided the resistors would do the job. There was an article about this conversion several years ago in one of the Healey Club magazines. Had to have been at least 10 years ago.
The main reason this happens is the way the original circuit is wired through the trafficator.
 
I figured that out, I did replace the flasher with the electronic one, thanks for all your help. With these cars you need all the help you can get, much appreciated.
 
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