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Electric power for compressor and car lift

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Lin

Lin

Jedi Knight
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I will shortly be building a new garage. I will ultimately install an air compressor for a blasting cabinet. I have collected some previous emails about suggestions for size, brand and etc. for the compressor. What I need to know now is do the compressors that I might use in my garage for cleaning parts in a cabinet - not wholesale blasting of large body parts - require a 220 line or is 110 sufficient?

I am also thinking about a back yard buddy 4 post lift. Does it require a 220 line? Their on-line ad says either?

Thanks.

Lin Rose
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 
Some advice about 220 vs 120 is that you can develope twice the power with the same size wire. The power from 220 also draws from both of the phases brought to your property keeping load in better balance. 220 is your best bet.
 
Assuming this is new construction, you will have 220 at your panel (circuit breaker box) anyway. It is fairly simple and inexpensive to run a 220 circuit to the point where you want the outlet for your equipment. That way at least the correct wiring is in the wall. Should you decide to go 110 instead, you would only use one of the hot legs, the neutral, and the ground.
 
When it comes to the compressor, remember that the blasting cabinet uses LOADS of air, and bigger is always better. Also remember that imported compressors tend to lie about their capacity. To run a half way reasonable blaster you need at least 5 (GENUINE) HP on the motor, and not the Chinese variety of hp !

AWEM
 
I've got a Husky, 6.5 hp, 60 gallon, 240 volt Home Depot special. Max pressure is 125 psi, but with the Skat blast cabinet, the best continuous pressure is about 75 psi. I use a medium grit glass bead, suitable for both steel and aluminum. If I had it to do over again, I'd go for a more powerful, two stage, with a larger tank. Blasting at 100+ psi is a lot faster. That being said, you can trade economy for time. It just takes longer at 75 psi.
 
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