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EGR valve

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hultman

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I have a '76 TR6 that has not run right in the 17 years I have owned it. The car was always driveable, but only ran "right" every now and then. Every year I went through another round of diagnostics, and this year, after rebuilding the ignition system (again), I moved back to looking for mixture problems or air leaks.

I've done leak tests many times before, but this time I fogged the entire engine compartment with carb cleaner, one part at a time, and low and behold, the engine faltered badly when I sprayed near the EGR valve. So I took off the angle pipe and plugged the port on the intake manifold, and the car has been running perfectly!

I pulled the EGR valve, and the bushing that the rod passes through is broken off its base. The rod moves up and down with vacuum, and I assume that the car would run fine when the bushing happened to seat in it's original position, blocking the air flow, but it would leak air badly when it didn't seat right. Thus a very lean mixture and the miss.

My problem is that I now find out that there haven't been any EGR valves available for ten years, according to one vendor! I've asked around for a used one, but no one has come up with one. I suppose I could plug the EGR port in the head, but where would I find a plug for this? I guess I could turn threads on a piece of stock, but that sounds like a lot of work.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Jim
 
Unless you are really worried about nitrous oxides you should plug the EGR. It takes a stock US bolt size so it will only cost you a couple of bucks. Simply take the EGR to the hardware store and have them match the threads.
Hope this helps
 
What about going to a bearing store and asking about buying a new bushing. I am always amazed at what the bearing store has.
 
Nitric oxide emissions are increased by high combustion temperatures.

The EGR valve is designed to feed inert (non combustible) exhaust gas into the intake during cruise conditions.

Addition of inert exhaust gasses to the mixture displaces some of the combustible fuel / air & lowers combustion temperatures. Also power & throttle response are lowered. If your car does not require NOX emission tests or can pass them without the EGR, there is some gain from removing it. As others have said, when the EGR malfunctions, all sorts of poor running can result. If the valve sticks closed, no problem. If it sticks open, poor idle, poor throttle response, & less power will result.

This valve is accompanied by various vacuum operated control valves & hoses which can also fail. It was a poor bandaid which was replaced by questionably "better" systems on later designs.
D
 
Thanks! I wasn't aware that it was a standard thread. Just ordered a plug from fastenal and I should be fine for now.

I would still like to find a used EGR valve some day. The car is original, engine wise, and even still has the air pump. Don't know why I like that, but I do.

Anyone got a good EGR valve they want to part with?

Thanks for the help!

Jim
 
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