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Easy way to remove Cylinder head?

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arbs_53

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I had an intake manifold stud break off recently and I'm in the process of removing the head in order to have a machine shop do the work of removing the broken piece. I tried removing the head by simply lifting it and failed to get anywhere. I can see where there is seapage of antifreeze between the block and head so I know it's loose, I just can't seem to lift it off the block. Any recommendations on how to do it, safely and easily?
 
Many will disagree with this, but I have used a thin putty knife and firmly but carefully driven it into the corners of the head, into the gasket. Eventually, the bond between the head and block loosens and the head can be lifted off. Obviously one doesn't want to score either mating surface.
 
If the head is stuck, somtimes just leaving the spark plugs in and rotating the engine with the starter will pop it loose. If it's broke loose from the gasket but won't lift off, there's probably a rusted head bolt or two binding against the head.
 
stuff rope into cylinders 2 & 5 while they're at BDC, slowly rotate the crank.
 
I've encountered that problem numerous times. The way that I've had to finally resort to removal most often is to remove all the head retaining nuts and washers underneath and apply copiuos amounts of penetrant (PB or KROIL) several times over a couple of days into the gap between the studs and head. I own the cam-style stud removers whereby I use a ratchet handle and extension to remove the studs. Then, I take 2 screwdrivers I no longer care for and grind them into a sharp, narrow wedge. I then carefully drive them into the head gasket material STAYING AWAY FROM THE CORNERS :nonono:....and move the location as I do this. Eventually, I'm able to gently pry and remove the head. At worst, there are a couple of tool marks that I have never had be any consequence! Good luck!
 
DrEntropy said:
stuff rope into cylinders 2 & 5 while they're at BDC, slowly rotate the crank.
Click to expand...
I've had good luck with the "rope trick", but I've always used the weight of the car to move the crankshaft. Stuff the cylinders with rope, put the car in third gear and roll it.
Good luck,...Bob
 
Home Depot, et al, sell a pack of a dozen or so plastic wedges for shimming door and window frames... about 1" x 8" and 1/4" thick at the fat end. I have used these to get the head moving up. Onesy at first, the double up or triple up.

This (and the penetrating pil suggested will get it started, then comes the big yank (my back aches just thinking about it).
 
BobSands said:
DrEntropy said:
stuff rope into cylinders 2 & 5 while they're at BDC, slowly rotate the crank.
Click to expand...
I've had good luck with the "rope trick", but I've always used the weight of the car to move the crankshaft. Stuff the cylinders with rope, put the car in third gear and roll it.
Good luck,...Bob
Click to expand...

I'm lazy ... I just stuff the cyls and bump the starter :smile:

Dunno if the choice of rope matters, but I've always used cotton clothesline, not the poly stuff.
 
Cotton good, "polyprope" BAAD.

...it works on Jags, too... :wink:
 
Thanks, guys. I'm going to try the rope trick tonight after work.
One more question, though. When re-installing the head gasket, do I need to use some kind of adhesive? If so, what kind is recommended and does it go on both surfaces? (That was three wasn't it? NO, four!)
 
No sealant if you use a Payen (brand) head gasket. With stock-style gaskets, some have used Permatex to seal the rectangular opening that the pushrods travel through but not near the cylinders. TRF (fairly near to you) has the Payen gasket set in stock.
 
I've seen pictures of bent valves as the result of some applications of the "rope trick".

I may have just been lucky, but I've always been successful with spraying penetrating oil around the studs, giving a knock around the corners with a piece of 2x4 between the head & an engineering hammer, wait overnight, repeat.

The best solution I've seen for the truly frozen ones was: remove the rocker pedestal and turn the engine with the starter (or push it while in gear). The engine compression safely does the work. Use penetrating oil!
 
I'll add a disclaimer for any who read this in the future from an archives search:

I do not think we have mentioned that you are referring to the 6-cylinder engine-- though it seems that is what you have.

On the 4-cylinder TRactor engine the rope trick is really a last resort (unless you're going further into the engine anyway) as one can dislodge a piston liner when doing this.
 
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