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Easy add on fuse block

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
When I got my TR8, I was surprised to find that just like my TR6, the entire fuse panel was filled on every circuit. I was not about to replace the entire fuse panel with a new one like I did to my TR6, which was great but not made for this car Classic Technologies TR6 Fuse Panel

So, I decided than rather fighting to tap into and possibly overloading a line, that I would add a new breaker style block under the hood where I could have a hot block that could be easy tapped in to for whatever and whenever I wanted. The decision was whether or not to feed from the ignition or directly from the alternator/starter block connector.

For this one, I decided to go from the ignition, so while Woody had it all apart to install the new engine, I asked him to run a wire from the switch out to the engine compartment so I could tap in to this block easily. You could just as easily tap this into the back of the alternator for full time power, as it does come with a nice 8 gauge wire lead to the buss.

He ran the wire out when the engine bay was empty and I hooked it all up tonight, with access provided to my new fog lights. I now have an easy access that is constantly fed with the key on and has no hot lugs until you add a fuse or breaker. I may add a switched LED row on the inside of the top of hood for an under hood lamp when the hood is open at night.

The pictures will explain what I meant, as the one side of the block is hot from the input, but the outboard lug side doesn't get power until a fuse is plugged in.

This is the link for the fuse block page and you will see mine in the middle: Wiring Products Fuse Blocks
 

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A word of caution. If you plan on running switched power from the white wire circuit in the TR8 to power things like fans, you may run into some problems frying wires. The switched power throughout the car(white wires) comes from the ignition switch and then feeds a bundle behind the fuse panel. The wire coming from the switch is small and cannot handle any significant load. It should only be used as a signal wire. This is why there are so many relays attached to the sides of the fuse panel. The best way to source power for a switched power circuit is to go back to the battery for power and install a relay. Run the power in from the battery, bring switched power back to the relay from the white bundle and then run a large white switched power to the front of the car into the fuse block. I like to use MGB fuse blocks and relays scavenged from wedge parts cars.
 
Todd, I think he ran that directly to the switch. I think the white wire is from the block.
Though I like your idea Todd. I's the way I would do it to.

Paul, you can get that block with a relay on it to power all the terminals so you are basically doing what Todd said.
Can't remember where I've seen it though

Edit,Edit... I do like them Paul. Thank you for the close up of them .Now I know how they look. Can never really tell with a low res catalog shot.
 
If it's like the earlier Triumphs, the switch itself has somewhat limited current carrying abilities as well. Stags had several relays from the factory, whose only purpose was to reduce the load on the ignition switch.

I used a Lucas fuse block, but it's strictly personal preference.

DSCF0001_crop.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing, but I really want to hear about the new engine!
 
The small diameter white wire shown is to my 3" fog lights and I hooked it up just to test them. They are controlled through a black relay shown below the block in the picture.

Don is correct in that this is wired through the ignition switch.

I don't plan to put much of a load on this block at all, mainly some LED under hood lighting.

I have a slide on plastic cover idea that I think that I can use to slide over the hot terminals, once a fuse is placed in the circuit to energize them. Until I wire something in and fuse it, the exposed side is dead to the touch, but the white wire shown attached is hot, so point well taken.

I really don't plan to have any tools in that area, but that's when things usually go wrong...........
 
My concern is that someone will try and run fans, fuel pump, etc. on the switched power circuit without taking the time to install a relay. You'd be surprised how many TR8 owners, and mechanics are oblivious to what relays are, how they work or why they are important. The coolest thing about having the extra fuse block in the engine compartment is now you have a power source for your timing light. I like to install one for constant power and one for switched power. This is one of the things I want to do to Dave's car over the winter. The PO ran the same red wires all over the car to power all of the aftermarket stuff. Looks like braided red spaghetti and makes it tough to figure out what goes where. I need to rip it all out and do it right.
 
Todd, I have my fog lights, through their own switch,fuse and relay on this and I will run some low power LED under hood lamps and that will be about it. The other cooling fan is on it's own circuit using the original setup with relays and the fuel pump is factory. I would never add anything without a relay to this or a direct power block. Adding a direct one on the other side would sure be easy enough.
 
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