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Eastman's Rust Encapsulator

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TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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If you are looking for a great product to coat your frame with, try Eastman's Rust Encapsulator coating. Way cheaper than POR15 and a whole lot easier to apply. It goes on very thick (unlike POR15, which is as thin as water) and should be applied with a cheap disposable brush. Throw the brush away. Wear gloves, it don't come off your hands very easily. I have no problems with POR15, I used it to coat my new floorboards. It is just a PITA to use, requiring super cleaning of the surface with their product. Eastman's is designed to go over moderate rust and the surface does not have to be super clean to apply. And it is almost bullet proof. I keep a can handy (unlike POR15, once you open the can, it has no shelf life), have had it for years, and often use it to re-coat an area of repair or welding. Good stuff. My hint from Heloise for tonight.
 
Eastwood's product used to be called Coroless Paint. When it was still sold by that name I used it to coat the insides of various parts of my Mini where I couldn't get to with POR. I was very pleased with it. It's not a tough as POR but as you say, it's a lot easier (and a lot less expensive) to apply.
 
Well - and I'm not arguing with Bill here - I tried their spray Encapsulator with lousy results. It wasn't a prep issue either. Maybe the brush on stuff is better, but I can't recommend their rattle can stuff.
 
I just saw a review/comparison in one of the UK based magazines. They chose Eastwood over POR15 as well. I'll find the article and post the name and month published. It may have been Classics & Sports Cars. Its one of $9.99 magazines that only buy when I see something I really want to read. Now you guys have me saying Eastwood!

Also so it on My Classic Car recently on SPEED chnl.
 
My friend Jon (a fellow Mini owner) wasn't satisfied with the test results he found online. He decided to perform his own test of POR-15, Rust Encapsulator, and Rust Bullet. He decided to post his findings on his web space. You can see his test method and results in the link below.
https://www.drjing.com/Mini/BLOG/SideBySide.htm
 
I think that Eastwood sponsors My Classic Car but I used R E on my chassis and I have used POR in the past and prefer R E in application and finish. I used POR over paint on my floors and it flaked off after a year or so.

R E does require a longer drying period in which it hardens. Their new formula chassis black is also very good. Unlike the original formula that required 7 days before recoating, the new stuff can easily be 2nd coated. But it also requires a longer drying period after which it's like iron.
 
PeterK said:
I used POR over paint on my floors and it flaked off after a year or so.
Click to expand...

This is not a surprise. POR will not stick well to smooth metal or other paint. Their instructions mention mechanically roughening the surface of smooth metal (sanding or sandblasting) to give the surface "tooth" for the POR to stick to. The roughness of the acid etched metal and treated rust provides this tooth in normal applications. I believe the instructions also mention not painting over other paint.

While I use POR in some applications, this is a great example of places where other coatings are much better. POR takes a lot of effort and time for preparation to get really good results. Rust Encapsulator certainly has its advantages in situations like this.
 
dklawson said:
Eastwood's product used to be called Coroless Paint. When it was still sold by that name I used it to coat the insides of various parts of my Mini where I couldn't get to with POR. I was very pleased with it. It's not a tough as POR but as you say, it's a lot easier (and a lot less expensive) to apply.
Click to expand...

I used Corroless paint with great success on my MK I Spitfire. It is still working and it been almost 18+ years. I have since used POR 15 and Rust Bullet. I like the way POR 15 went on. It smoothed out nicely. I have had some failure with POR 15, but some success too. The Rust Bullet seemed to work better than POR 15, but is a devil to put on well. I tried to spray it, but could get it to spray.
 
I used black quart size, often on sale. I first applied with a foam brush and pushed it into the hard to reach recesses. Then after the brush coat dried, I thinned a batch and sprayed the entire frame. You can used regular laquer thinner unlike the POR product which require their own solvent.


After a week or so of drying I used the Extreme Chassis Black satin in the large rattle can. I used just over two cans. The Extreme product allows respray; the regular chassis black will pull if you recoat too soon. I've used both and the Extreme is worth the extra $$. Dries harder over time so give yourself enough drying time and it will dry rock hard.

Watch for sales and google for coupons.
 
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