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E Type Torsion Bars: Update
All,
I just finished adjusting the ride height on my 69 E Type. For anyone needing to do this, here's what I had to go through:
Using the repair manual, you'll need to make a bar 1/4" thick by 1" wide by approx. 18 3/4" long. Holes are drilled at top and bottom to attach where the shock absorber would mount: refer to the manual for this and bolt dimension, but verify bolt dimensions on your car before drilling the bar. This fixes the ride height dimension while the bars are being adjusted.
If using a floor jack, jack the car up and secure with heavy duty jack stands to the front A arm mounting points.
For the driver's side, you may need to remove the exhaust and the heat shield below the transmission: this may be needed for clearance to drive the bar back into its mounts.
Disconnect the upper a arm ball joint, steering joint, and sway bar, slacken the two castellated nuts on the lower suspension arms. Be prepared to support the hub, disk, and caliper assembly with a heavy wire to the upper a arm. Allow the suspension to move as far as it needs to install the bar.
Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the torsion bar lever to the reaction plate. Pry the lever forward until free of the rear splines (I found a heavy screwdriver and a ball joint fork worked well here). Remove the small nut and bolt that pins the torsion bar to the front of lower suspension arm. Mark the current position of the bar and arm for reference. Using a long, stout punch, drive the bar rearward until the front splines clear the arm. Now, trial and error here: turn the bar one spline clockwise or counter-clockwise and slide it into the front arm only 1/4 to 1/2 inch, slide the torsion bar lever back to the rear splines and give it a few taps to center it in the reaction plate. Check for bolt fit: you'll know when the bolts line up. When they do, this is the correct position for the torsion bar. (with 25 splines on the front and thus 25 possibilities, it took me about 20 tries to find the right spot)
Drive the torsion bar forward to fully engage the front suspension arm and reinstall the nut and bolt, then drive the torsion lever onto the rear splines and bolt it back up. The rear surface of the torsion bar should be flush with the back of the reaction plate when done. Reassemble suspension.
It does get easier on the rider's side by the way.
Immediately after you've pulled each torsion bar, make sure you use a high quality grease like moly wheel bearing grease on all splines, levers, and arms, or this job will be even tougher.
It takes patience, and it's a job best done on a lift if one is available.
Good luck. If you decide to do this and don't have the dimensions for the bar from the manual, post a request with your car year and chassis # and I'll get you the info.
Steve
All,
I just finished adjusting the ride height on my 69 E Type. For anyone needing to do this, here's what I had to go through:
Using the repair manual, you'll need to make a bar 1/4" thick by 1" wide by approx. 18 3/4" long. Holes are drilled at top and bottom to attach where the shock absorber would mount: refer to the manual for this and bolt dimension, but verify bolt dimensions on your car before drilling the bar. This fixes the ride height dimension while the bars are being adjusted.
If using a floor jack, jack the car up and secure with heavy duty jack stands to the front A arm mounting points.
For the driver's side, you may need to remove the exhaust and the heat shield below the transmission: this may be needed for clearance to drive the bar back into its mounts.
Disconnect the upper a arm ball joint, steering joint, and sway bar, slacken the two castellated nuts on the lower suspension arms. Be prepared to support the hub, disk, and caliper assembly with a heavy wire to the upper a arm. Allow the suspension to move as far as it needs to install the bar.
Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the torsion bar lever to the reaction plate. Pry the lever forward until free of the rear splines (I found a heavy screwdriver and a ball joint fork worked well here). Remove the small nut and bolt that pins the torsion bar to the front of lower suspension arm. Mark the current position of the bar and arm for reference. Using a long, stout punch, drive the bar rearward until the front splines clear the arm. Now, trial and error here: turn the bar one spline clockwise or counter-clockwise and slide it into the front arm only 1/4 to 1/2 inch, slide the torsion bar lever back to the rear splines and give it a few taps to center it in the reaction plate. Check for bolt fit: you'll know when the bolts line up. When they do, this is the correct position for the torsion bar. (with 25 splines on the front and thus 25 possibilities, it took me about 20 tries to find the right spot)
Drive the torsion bar forward to fully engage the front suspension arm and reinstall the nut and bolt, then drive the torsion lever onto the rear splines and bolt it back up. The rear surface of the torsion bar should be flush with the back of the reaction plate when done. Reassemble suspension.
It does get easier on the rider's side by the way.
Immediately after you've pulled each torsion bar, make sure you use a high quality grease like moly wheel bearing grease on all splines, levers, and arms, or this job will be even tougher.
It takes patience, and it's a job best done on a lift if one is available.
Good luck. If you decide to do this and don't have the dimensions for the bar from the manual, post a request with your car year and chassis # and I'll get you the info.
Steve
