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E-Type Broken Bonnet Release

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Geo Hahn

Geo Hahn

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Got a message from a friend in a jam. Seems to have a broken bonnet release cable:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I know you don't have one now, but in the old days...how does the bonnet latch function if the pull handle no longer works? Driver's side seems to full free (float free) and does not unlatch. Put the car on the lift and removed a metal plate under that area (battery area) and can't see anything. Is there some opening that can be accessed for such dire emergencies?[/QUOTE]

If it was a Triumph I could tell him 4 ways to get that thing open but don't know where to begin with an E.

BTW -- it is a Series 1 coupe if that matters. Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
Re: E-Type Broken Bonnet Release Cable

There is no bonnet release cable on E Series 1.

Pat
 
My bad -- it has been 38 years since I had one. From his decsription perhaps someone can identify the difficulty as whatever mechanical functions undo the bonnet it does not seem to be operating on one side. Thanks again.
 
Series 1 and 2, from the drawings I have, use a bonnet release, handle and escutcheon, BD19903.
Bonnet catch BD19883, Pull Clip C13806, etc.
The release looks like a cable.

Series 3 have the same parts.
At least the cable (release) and some of the other bits.


Which is odd, as I though sure there are early ones with levers on the outside.
If he has cables, should be a rod with a "L" bend in the end that fits into the release mechanism he should be able to actuate with a screwdriver.
Pull back.

Maybe the lock brackets, LH and RH are the external type, BD19905 and BD19906.

Somewhat different than my MK2........

Of course, my first clue was the hinges for the bonnet were on the wrong end.....

So, Pat-

At what point did the outside releases change on E types to internal cables?

I know from reading that the early ones with external releases are somewhat sought after.
 
No cables on an e type.I have never tried to open a bonnet this way, but this is how I would approach it. Remove the handle and screws for the escutchen. Try to remove the entire assembly. Take a decent flashlight and look thru the hole. Take the handle and try to "hook" it through the hole in the actual "catch" part, and pull it open. Prepare for swearing. If that does not work, then I would try to remove the sheetmetal finish panels at the wheelwell, and go in that way. Be careful of contacting the battery if the wheel well access is tried. Perhaps a peice of welding rod could be used to sneak around "things" under there, and hooked to the latch. Still, I would try through the normal pulls hole until all hope was exhausted. Best of luck.
 
Thanks for the advice. I know this is not one of the early one with those outside latches.

We'll try the approaches suggested to catch hold of the linkage.
 
I don't think you can reache it from the passenger footwell. The openings for the pedals are on top and the latch mechanism is to the outside and down. And, if it still is a stock setup, the fuel filter and the upper frame rail are going to be in the way. I think the best bet, if you can't hook it through the latch hole as suggested, would be to see if you can remove the brake booster tank and reach around the air filter cannister. You'll need to go by feel to do it. The only other thing I can think of before cutting holes would be to pop off the chrome strip on that side of the bonnet and cut the bolts holding the 2 sections together, there should be spacers on them wide nough to allow this. That would allow the rest of the bonnet to open so you could reach around to the latch.
 
TOC said:
So, Pat-

At what point did the outside releases change on E types to internal cables?

I know from reading that the early ones with external releases are somewhat sought after.
Click to expand...

After the first year the T handle bonnet and welded in louvers were changed.

Pat
 
MikeP said:
...The only other thing I can think of before cutting holes would be to pop off the chrome strip on that side of the bonnet and cut the bolts holding the 2 sections together...
Click to expand...

Mercy! I may wait a bit before passing along that idea. I can see it should work but -- whew!
 
I wouldn't want to unless I had to either. But unless you can reach it from underneath or hoo the lever on the latch through the A post hole I don't know that there's anything else in the way options that doesn't involve cutting holes or bending the sheetmetal. Good luck with what you try.
 
Okay, I have a question.

I have looked at parts books and drawings (and don't have an example handy)....
How exactly does the latch work?

It appears to catch and not actually capture the bonnet bit.

If so, and since a lift seems to be available, can the hinge be loosened and the bonnet slid enough forward to release the catch, lift, slip a block of wood in place, re-bolt the hinge and let the vehicle off the lift?

I mean, the catch doesn't appear to capture (clamshell) the bonnet catch, nor does it appear to be a spear.

Now, another one.

The actuator and escutcheon.

There is a 90 degree bend in the end of the rod/bar/or whatever.
It LOOKS like there is a retainer where it locks to the latch.

Is the rod/bar/or whatever solid or a cable?

Can the accessible end be grasped, and rotated so the 90 degree bit will catch the outside of the lever on the release?

All you need is one time and pull.
 
The "handles" are I.D. threaded to accomodate a rod going to the catch, the threads can be "oblonged" over time and the rod just slips out on the last attempt to pull it. Removing the two screws holding the plate will give access to the rod if that's what has happened. The rod can then be pulled to release the "hook" that holds the thing down.

If it has failed at the end of the rod where it is attached to the lever it can be a real fishing expedition as Jesse says. But it can be done with a hooked piece of welding rod or similar.

I've had success repairing the threads in the handles with HeliCoil inserts. The rods may need replacement or it could just be failure of the retaining clip holding the rod in the actuating lever arm.

Either way it really will try your patience.
 
here's the E-type catch used in all Series:
 

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It's not the center catch that's the problem from they way it's been described. If it were that would be easy since the bonnet should lift enough to get access to it.

The outer latches won't allow the bonnet to be slid forward if it's unbolted. They have a hook on the outer ends that engages a short rod in the receiver that's bolted to the wings. So you can't move the wings outward, forward or back unless the latch hook is disengaged. So unless you can manage to hook the lever on the inside end of the latch through the hole, catching the end of the rod if it's come out of the handle or can wiggle your arm in from underneath, there's not much left in terms of options before cutting or bending.
 
My point precisely, Mike.
 
Pretty much all boxed in. The best you can hope for is that the rod has come out of the handle. Then it's just a matter of two screws and a way to yank the rod. If the hooked end comes out of the actuating arm it's a "Go Fish" mission. The arm is a flat piece of 1/8" (approx) steel, in kinda a "droopy" "U" shape. If you can get a hook on the front of it, it can be pulled far enough to disengage the "claw" holding the latch. Short of that you're in "SawzAll" country. It really is worth the effort to try and release it without resorting to panel abuse tho. I've seen some where somebody attached a wire cable to the arm and run it thru the firewall hole to just behind the release trim and had a big fender washer at the end as a pull for a secondary, or "safety" release. Thought that was clever.
 
I've had to spend some time looking and thinking about this but I believe there may be a way before sawing if the prior methods don't work. If you can get the rear mud guard off inside the passenger wheelwell I think you could reach the latch assembly either over the top or around the side of the air cleaner cannister using a dowl to push the lever back. The sheet metal screws holding it on go from the inside to the well so you'd need to grab them with vise grips and turn them, or cut the ends off and drill them out. In any case, you'll need to do this to take the bonnet apart anyway since it's fastened to both the center section and the fender panel.
 
Don't know if this will be helpful or not but here are some "outside" contacts:

Jaguars Unlimited
www.jaguarsunlimited.com
ph:847-432-4200
fx:847-432-4254
Ask for Dave Scaid. I've spoken with him on a few occasions, very nice, very helpful.

The Last Detail
www.thelastdetail.com
ph:847-689-8822
fx:847-689-9462
I've stopped in here several times. Nice bunch of people.

Northshore Import Sportscars
www.northshoresportscars.com
ph:847-247-0447
fx:847-247-0446
They always have a few Jags in the shop or for sale, neat place.

Lastly,
Historic Race Car
www.historicracecar.com
ph:815-455-1944
Ask for Yves or Rich.....great guys, really knowledgeable.
 
Any resolution to this yet?
 
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