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TR2/3/3A Dynalite alternator by Powerlite

astults

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Has anyone tried the Dynalite alternator from Powerlite? It looks just like the original generator but it's an alternator. They're very expensive. Probably over $800 by the time it gets to my door. I like to drive with my lights on and the "heater" going and I've been caught with a low battery that has barely started my '62 TR3 B. I'd like to drive with a little more confidence. It's supposed to be a very simple conversion. "Plug and play" they say.

Allan
Veneta, Oregon
 
Allen, Have you ever heard the saying "You be the goat". Kind of a I don't have a clue but you give it a try and let us all know. $800? Is it the look you want, as there are lots of good alternators that will do the job, with a little work, of course.

Wayne
 
I have not tried the Dynalite for the very reason that it is expensive. However, I do have one or two acquaintances in the Mini community who have used the product and are pleased with it. Be advised this is not a big alternator. I think they are only rated for about 40 Amps. That's more than the generator and comparable to what many British cars hand in the 1970s but it is not a quantum leap in power. The people I know who used the Dynalite did so because they wanted improved reliability, better low speed charging, and wanted to keep their engine bay original in appearance.
 
Allan, I considered this product and a few other "stealth alternators" from the UK. Some friends in the UK provided feedback and claimed there were a number of failures, probably due to overheating. Even if not true, there is a risk because they have so much stuffed into a small volume. heat is the enemy of auto electrics!.

I corresponded with several of these companies and asked it they had authorized Repair & Return or service agent in the USA. Those that answered said no and not likely to happen. Bottom line, what do you do if it stops working? Don't even know if you can get parts. $800 is a handsome sum for 40 amps.

I like the mini Denso alternator and may go with this. You get about 55 amps for $70.

You'll find my posts here: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?102080-Need-alternator-dimensions

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forum...-c39-dynamo-possible-fix-for-charging-system/



Cheers, Frank
 
With the Delco-Remy, how do you re-wire the electrics? The Dynalite folks sell a phantom Lucas control box which should work... Jim
 
Anyone considering a DynaLite alternator would be interested in maintaining the original look. There is a tech article at Mini Mania that discusses using an old generator control box as a junction box so you can keep the original look and unaltered wiring.
https://www.minimania.com/Changing_from_Dynamo_to_Alternator_721
The control box they are converting is not the same one as used on my GT6 but similar methods could be used on most Lucas wiring and control boxes.

If you are simply interested in fitting a Delco alternator where a generator used to be, the easiest way is to disconnect and tape off the old dynamo wires and fit the alternator. Assuming you have a "two wire" Delco (like a 10SI or 12SI) you run a new wire from a charge warning light to the #1 terminal on the Delco's 1/2 plug. Then you run a jumper wire from the #2 terminal on the Delco's 1/2 plug to the threaded output post. Finally you would run a couple of 10 AWG wires from the alternator's threaded post over to the "hot" terminal on the starter solenoid. This will give you a functioning charge indicator light, sense wiring from the #2 terminal to the output, and connection between the alternator output and the battery.
https://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/DelcoWiring.jpg
 
...I like to drive with my lights on and the "heater" going and I've been caught with a low battery that has barely started my '62 TR3 B. I'd like to drive with a little more confidence...

An alternative might be a headlamp with a lower draw. In my TR4 am using LEDs that fit into an H4 bulb. Specifically, these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-60W-60...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9951ac21

They work in negative or positive ground w/o modification. The high beams draw 2.6 amps (each) the low beams 1.8 amps (each), I believe that low beam draw is about the same as a the 21 watt brake light I use.

By way of contrast, a 60/55 H4 halogen drew 5.3 amps and 4.6 amps.

So far so good, though I have had them for less than 6 months and do not do a lot of night driving.
 
Has anyone tried the Dynalite alternator from Powerlite? It looks just like the original generator but it's an alternator. They're very expensive. Probably over $800 by the time it gets to my door. I like to drive with my lights on and the "heater" going and I've been caught with a low battery that has barely started my '62 TR3 B. I'd like to drive with a little more confidence. It's supposed to be a very simple conversion. "Plug and play" they say.

Allan
Veneta, Oregon
I converted the 4A from a generator after a trip home where I needed headlights, wipers, heater fan and radio (my team was winning!) and the ammeter showed -15 amps. I bought a 40 amp Nippon Denso and fitting bracket from Cambridge Motorsport. I now run a smaller lighter battery so I have saved many pounds of weight. No problems with heat despite a trip across the Nullarbor Plain last year which included a couple of 38c days. Occupants overheated but the car was good. I do have a ceramic coated standard exhaust manifold which may keep the temperature on the alternator down a bit. Whichever way you go, you will need to upgrade your ammeter.

I guess that you need to decide how important an original appearance is against long term performance and cost. I am all for changes which improve the safety and reliability without changing the essential character of the car. I want to drive it as much as possible!
 
Happily, Dynalites are now available in the U.S. Christmas present!
 
Happily, Dynalites are now available in the U.S. Christmas present!
Just a follow up... With the Cable (GBP to USD rate) at 1.3, these are now $500 from Racetorations, shipping included. I myself am waiting for it to drop to 1.2... At least one positive out of the Brexit !
 
And be advised there is a competitive product out there that cuts the price closer to $200 or so.
 
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