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durn Bonnets

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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I am going to get several big frineds togehter and we are going to squeeze this thing. Center needs to go up and sides down at the rear to make it fit.

If that does not work I will start looking for a pristeen one for something less than an arm and a leg. One that has not been hit.

That is one tough peice of steel though, going to take a heck of a squeeze.
 
OK, Jack... this is why I'm building my car before doing the body work.

I've discovered two things causing this problem.
1. the fenders get buckled out above the wheels. (push in there and watch what happens)
2. the stiffener along the back of the of the bonnet pulls along the spot welds and also flattens.

I haven't decided how to get mine back in shape yet, but I sure do not want to be messing with it after it is painted.
 
Agree, it is the stifner across the back under neath I think, I just did the other bit my self and that helped.

Yes by all means fit all before paint, I did not have the option and think my body guy left that step out.

Need to go set in the garage with the bonnet up and think on this awile. Think rear stifner.
 
Someone here (maybe Donn) gave me the idea of putting latches on the inner footwell ...Jag style. I haven't ruled that out as a possibility.
 
Trevor is correct. Usually you can see a slight difference in radius between the cowl and the bonnet edge. It needs to be "tweaked" in the middle. It is difficult to do once painted. Stack some blocks of wood in the center where the battery sits just about 1/2" taller than the cowl. Cover them with a towel to protect the paint. Be sure the blocks or board is about 6-8" wide to prevent kinking the brace. Lower the bonnet a little at the time onto the blocks. This is best done with a person on each side. push down a little at the time until you get the correct bow that matches the cowl. The blocks must be taller than you think to be able to push the bonnet beyond its normal flex point. 50 years of the weight of the wings slowly deforms the bonnets. Not to mention missing bonnet stops or damage. I prefer to do this before the bonnet is mounted or painted because the hinges will also resist being twisted. Just be very careful not to bend the support. It is pretty strong at the rear edge but not the front edge.
 
Steve, excellent idea, think I will go uout and check that. heck I can always paint again if necessary.

Did that the curve is correct now, think I must may have a bad drivers side hindge it looks crooked. I never could get that one out in fact. Think I will loosen it up and see if that helps a bit.
 
Jack,
If the hinge is twisted, you may be able to put some washers under it to shim it straight. With the bonnet off, they can be straightened by bolting a 2x4 to it and twisting it. This is the same hinge used on the early square bodies as well, so hinges are in abundent supply if you can't straighten it.
 
When I get another guy around, this weekend for sure, I will unbolt that hinge and see about the fit. Think that will work fine. It needs to go back a quarter of an inch and down the same amount.

Maybe can work something out with it but it needs to go back as well, maybe new holes. Worst case I cut it out and replace it. Hinges are available as you say.

Now where is my sawzall. Oh wait an excuse for a new tool.
 
I have done the blocks on the battery with success a couple of times. It worked at the Buster Cluster but he wasn't watching /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif I also did it to one of my Sprites after paint and it worked.
The trick to the wheel openings is to weld a 1/4" rod around the inside of the opening with the bonnet in place, latched, and someone pulling it forward as it is tack welded.
This realigns the wheel opening and gets the side fenders back where they want to be.
I find every bonnet needs this due to metal fatique.
 
Thanks Frank. Just think I may have found the main prob, bent hinge. Will work on it as soon as I find a neighbor handy to lend a hand.

I did the block trick on the battery and the cerve is now ok.
 
Jack, those new battery powered sawzall's are a wonder! Be sure to look at them when you go.
 
Spritenut, If you want to slip one past the judges you can substitute a piece of flat metal about 16 gauge for the rod. If it is sheared the correct width and laid on top of the lip, it is hardly noticeable. Spot welds about every 1 1/2 inches or so. It's just enough to stiffen it.
 
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