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Dual temp / oil pressure gauge - how to remove?

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RickB

RickB

Yoda
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This is on the MK2 Sprite.

The "Might as wells" grabbed me today and I've got my dash 98% removed for refurbishing.

I'm stuck on that water temp connection - how do I remove it from the back of the gauge? Or is that how it is done? Literally everything else is removed and that's the last connection.

Is it soldered to the back of the gauge or what?
 
DON'T CUT IT!!!

It's an ether filled capillary tube all the way to the engine.

You have to undo the large "gland" nut at the sensor end and fiddle the sensor out thru the firewall and dash.
 
...I hope that got thru quickly enuff. If you kink the tube or damage it, there are "fix it yourself" methods but involve soldering and ETHER (Think:"BIG bada-BOOM"). The alternative is a $300 refurb thru Nisonger.
 
No kidding?

Well then lets re-figure that number - I'd now say I'm about 80% done removing the dash. :frown:
 
It's not too bad a task, just wanted to try and save you from the experience of having to either "patch" it up or send it off for rebuild.
 
That's one of the great things about learning to come here and ask first - save a lot of pain this way! Learning from others pain is way better than learning from your own. :smile:
 
Spread that word around! :wink:
 
I pulled the big nut loose at the radiator but the tube seems stuck inside.
Do I just wiggle it until it loosens up or is there something else holding it in there?
 
I've dialed back my ambition a couple notches, with just the one gauge in the dash loosely I was able to peel off the old vinyl.

For now I'll see if I can dye it black and reinstall it, saving the major dash resto for another time.
 
At th' RADIATOR?!?! Should be on the t-stat housing. In the block.

Aught to hold th' bulb in but smeg and corrosion. PB Blaster and time should free it up. If you "wiggle" the copper line too much it'll work harden (embrittle) and break... then you're back to the $300 scenario.
 
Exactly what I was thinking when I decided to scale back - I really just wanted to go from a brown vinyl dash to a black vinyl dash so I can always save the metal work for another day.

The vinyl dye I got from Summit is working a treat!!
 
Wow, that's a great price from Northwest! I paid more than half that for a used C-N-H one on Ebay; I'd druther have had one with the temp markings on it.

It's not that hard to remove, Rick...once the bulb on the engine side releases, there are a few little retainer clips screwed into the inner fender to keep the tube from vibrating around. (They're probably rusted solid. :cry: ) From there, it's just snaking the tube thru the firewall while working the gauge out of the dash, a few inches at a time. I was able to do it myself in less than half an hour, start to end. And if <span style="font-style: italic">I'm</span> able to do it... :jester:
 
DrEntropy said:
At th' RADIATOR?!?! Should be on the t-stat housing. In the block.
Click to expand...

It goes right into the side of the rad right by the upper hose on my '63 too.
 
Rick's car is an 1100 with a 948 in it so the gauge goes to the radiator (previous-previous owner did it).
BillM
 
jvandyke said:
DrEntropy said:
At th' RADIATOR?!?! Should be on the t-stat housing. In the block.
Click to expand...

It goes right into the side of the rad right by the upper hose on my '63 too.
Click to expand...

Hi Folks,

I have a `59 Bugeye & mine connects directly to the Radiator as well. At first I thought it was strange & wrong but Its correct for at least a 948 engine.

Just some passing thoughts.

Regards, Russ
 
Interesting, well that's what I've got in this MK2 Sprite - a real honest to goodness Bugeye 948.
 
Ahhh. Been a while since I'd been intimate with an early Spridget/BE.

I sit corrected. :laugh:

Still "soak it with Blaster and wiggle gently" should get it. Same receiver arrangement.
 
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