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Drygas question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tinster
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Tinster

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If adding Drygas to your ethanol blend is bad;
then how do you avoid finding THIS inside your tank?

I'm talking additives. I'll install a water seperator in
my new tank-- when I can afford a custom built tank.

Thanks,

dale

badgas.jpg
 
Dale,

No amount of dry gas will get rid of that kind of crap. We've all had a bad load of gas or diesel at one time or another and you got 20 years worth all at once there.

Now with that being said, maybe 1/2 can of Marvel Mystery Oil Gas Treatment with every full tank filling. Keep in mind, the amount of alcohol in the cans is generally meant for a much bigger tank than a TR6 has and you can over concentrate that thing really fast.

I won't use anything but Marvel products for that purpose and you as a boater, probably know their worth very well.

This picture is kind of deceiving. Just exactly how big is that glass? It looks like it could be two feet tall or maybe on 12 ounces.
 
Yuck!

Actually, if you didn't know it was from a fuel tank... it almost looks like a desert. If the water were a bit whiter it would look sort of like Cookies-n-Cream ice cream with a thick caramel topping.
 
I'm with Doug on this...probably cookies and cream with hawaiian punch on top. But, shouldn't the punch be on bottom? Maybe it's "lite punch". I bet my TR would run on it and be [censored] grateful for it. It's lucky to get high grade gas save nothing for dessert.

Achtung
 
The glass is an iced tea glass maybe 10-12 ounces.
Tony and I bought 5 gallons of that stuff and it
killed the car fairly quickly. The glassful is what
remained in my fuel tank when I pulled it out.

The car is still not streetable until I can come up with about
$1,000+ for a custom made tank with built-in water seperator.

The economy and my health are both in the toilet, so it might
be a while.

d

83526F-f.jpg
 
Geeze, is this what all gas in PR looks like???? No wonder your car has so much trouble.

Maybe you should dispense into cans, take home and put in a clear continer to let it settle out. Then separate it before putting into the car.
 
Dale,

Try a couple of these.. they are called STA-DRI and you drop them in your tank.

https://www.westernatvs.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1455

I agree that there is nothing you can do about a bad tank of gas and I suspect there were several customers that had similar issues that day.

Put a drain in the lowest point of your tank and check for water before you drive.. Water should be at the bottom. I used to fly with this guy and that is the first thing he did before he started his airplane.. He had this little tool that pushed a valve open on the bottom of the tank and collected a fuel sample. He would continue to check if he suspected water... essentially draining the water before each flight.

Don't waste your money on a custom tank.
 
boxofparts said:
I used to fly with this guy and that is the first thing he did before he started his airplane.. He had this little tool that pushed a valve open on the bottom of the tank and collected a fuel sample.
Click to expand...

As far as I know that is a standard item (and proceedure) on all light aircraft. That is to say it must be a redily available part (and tool) that you could get simply enough (except for the PR shipping issues you face :smile: )
 
I am stunned by this!
I have never seen anything like this in our locale other than the one time we were hit with a tornado and torrential rain which flooded into the ground storage tanks in a few of the more questionably maintained gas stations.
We have 5 or 6 major oil refineries in our area who are clients. I have sent the photo to Shell for their comments.
Is this common in all areas of the world with high humidity or is this from a retailer who is purposefully "dosing" their reservoir tanks? Yes I do realize that you do get some H2O as a natural condensate in all fuels. In the winter here we add Methyl Hydrate to our tanks in the winter to drive off the condensate to prevent frozen gas lines.
I am not trying to be a smart ass with the following:
Is there any possibility that there is a crack in the hose between the gas cap and tank or a poor seal on the cap itself? My thought being that on a liquid sunshine day in P.R. the rain off the roof is pouring down the rear window into the the tank?
 
But getting to the bottom of the tank on a TR6 on a regular basis might be unpleasant ... IMO an in-line water separator/sediment bowl like the one Dale has already pictured makes a lot more sense. Commonly used on boats and tractors, so should be readily available in PR.

Eg,
https://www.robertscarbrepair.com/display.asp?id=398

https://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=73ZX5034W

https://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Fuel_Filters-SEACHOICE_GASOLINE_FUEL_WATER_SEPARATOR.html


Were even standard equipment on TRactor motor Triumphs
grin.gif

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=300231356887
 
Just out of curiosity ...

I'm assuming there's not a gas station for TR6's only. How do all the other cars drive with this in the tank?

T.
 
Dale
If this happened to me and I knew what station I purchased the gas from I would be right back there making the station owner pay for all my problems, and if he wouldnt I would be out there with a sign saying his gas is contaminated with water. Most likely his underground storage tank has a hole in it and ground water is seeping in. Like previous post seems like a lot more people would be affected too
 
All-

This mess happened all at once. Tony and I were in the TR6
and noticed we needed some fuel. We stopped at a station
where I am good friends with the owner. He was out of high
test so I pumped in 5 gallons of regular, figuring to fill
the tank with high test at another station.

The car crapped out before I could add any more fuel.

A fact of life: we get second rate products dumped on us
here on the island. I've know the owner for years and years
and he's as honest as they come.

After I replaced everything/component, I now use a brand new
gas station, with new tanks and only high test fuel.
I now pre-filter all the fuel before it goes into my tank.

But I have this nagging on/off/on/off fuel delivery problem.
Sometimes plenty of fuel; sometimes only a trickle (today
is a trickle day) Two days ago the car roared around the hood.

regards,

d

PS: Randal- yes I have one on my boat and will install the same
unit on my custom built TR6 fuel tank when I can afford the
$$$ for a custom tank. The filters are about $80. here.
 
Tinster
It is apparent that you need to filter/separate the fuel before it goes into the gas tank. Drygas or other additives would be of no value unless you pre-filter. That would go for any and all of your gasoline needs. Surely you can "invent" something that would be portable enough to use on all you autos/boats and for much less $'s than the custom tank. Geesh, what do you do for the lawn mower.
 
We used to put a "chamois" leather in the funnel when gas was poured in. The chamois holds the water but lets the gas through.
D
 
Dale, have you done a fuel pressure/volume test at the carburetors? If so, what were your readings.... Ideally, when hot after a jaunt through the neighborhood.


Don't forget the Quebec guy had the valves in his fuel pumps coming loose. Hopefully that's not happening to the pump Brosky sent you, but you never know.... Could also be the diaphragm in the pump falling victim to the "additives" in the fuel.
 
Ya know, I'm looking at the valves from the kit I'm using to rebuild my pump and the disc that actually closes against the fuel flow seems to be made of something rubber-like. I remember the original ones (now tossed) were a hard material.

Could the rubber swell due to ethanol and not fully control the flow? I'll drop one in some fuel to see. Can anyone else compare the actual operating disc in the valves?

Jeff
 
Jeff,

I recently rebuilt 4 pumps and saw what you are talking about. I think that the original diaphragms became brittle with age.
 
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