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MGB Drum Hat Install

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mathrin

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Getting close to the end of my brake install and I have all the bits installed on the rear drums but I can't get the hats to clear the shoes.

Any advice?

Thank you in advance.
 
Just replaced the right rear shoes and wheel cylinder on my '73. Geometry has to be "just so", but not terribly difficult. Sounds like you've got a handle on it.
 
I gave up on the drivers rear. It just refuses to go, not sure if I should try and beat it on. It's what's I've done with all the drums I've done before but those have all been beaters that just needed to run.
 
You beat on the drum, it will most likely no longer be true...and depending on how hard, may not last in one piece for long.

If the adjusters are backed off, the shoes and sliders centered, should not be too big of a deal.

I have run into new drums and new shoes that were too big for the drums. Needed to have the shoes fit to the drums...and I ain't sure who can do that anymore.

So, are the adjusters backed off?
Shoes not hung up on the backing plates anywhere?
E-brake FULLY released, as in nobody tightened the cables to compensate for out of adjustment rear shoes? (seen that a LOT over the years).
 
:iagree:

As I mentioned, the "geometry" has to be just so - shoes will move around in their locating slots to mirror the shape of the drum. Also, regarding the handbrake, if you didn't already, disconnect the cable pin from the lever; it'll give you a bit more play. And the adjuster at the top of the assembly needs to be completely closed.

Let us know...
 
We, too, have seen some shoes which were too "thick" to allow the drum to be fitted. But as Mickey and TOC have noted, the adjuster and handbrake at "zero" positions should allow you to fit the drum in most cases. Particularly since the other side went together.
 
So instead of posting from my phone, I am at a computer. Update to how things went and currently are.

I managed to get the drivers side drum on. Took for persuasion since it started and wouldn't move. So I pressed it in with a pair of C clamps and lug nuts. Like I did with the passenger side but I was able to get to that side with the lug nuts before it got stuck.

E brake is fully disengaged, or at least appears to be fully down. It won't pull or push either way but the cables have slack going to either drum versus being snug or taunt if it were to be engaged. Looks like I will need to do some work on the e-brake at some point. Bleed the lines for a long time because the brake fluid coming out of it looked like mud so used a whole bottle of DOT3 and probably wouldn't be a bad idea to flush and bleed again at some point.

Took the car out for short drive and it didn't want to move/roll, which was to be expected seeing how very snug the drivers side was. Drove about half mile to a mile going through several intersections and the car broke good and straight. Stopped in my driveway and the car rolled back at this time. Got it in the garage and got out to see plenty of smoke pillowing out of drivers drum. Not super surprised seeing as it was likely riding the brake the whole time as to be expected (hence, the short ride).

So that's where I stand now. Hopefully I've burned off enough pad to no longer have the interference and didn't cause any damage to the brake system.

(Still hate drum brakes)
 
Something's definitely not right. I would think that driving it a bit would help center the shoes.
 
E-brake is "off"...did I miss where you confirmed main adjusters are backed off?
Removed and cleaned so they DO back off?
Dave
 
I did fail to mention that the main adjusters were backed off. I completely removed them, cleaned them and re-inserted them in the cavity. They were just about touching. Any adjustments clockwise or counterclockwise caused them to open.

I will adjust them again after watching the video just to be sure. Maybe I can get them closer together. What can it possibly hurt right?
 
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