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driveshaft removal, here's an idea!

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Steve1970

Steve1970

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i'm looking to replace the driveshaft u-joints, but having trouble determining the best way to get the driveshaft out; i read thru some archives and it looks like some have gotten by this by removing the exhaust system.. but i'd like to get your thoughts on this:

since i've already got the tranny tunnel removed (to get at the flange+yoke bolts), couldn't i just unhitch the tranny from its mount and jack up the end of the tranny for clearance to pull the driveshaft out thru the cockpit? i'm thinking that for additional clearance i'll need to swing the tranny to one side (while jacked up).

any nays or yays on this? or better yet, has anyone actually tried this? other suggestions also very appreciated.

thanks!
 
I had similar thoughts about removing the driveshaft in Robyn's Spitfire. The problem I saw was having enough room to pull the driveshaft forward enough for the rear end to clear the tunnel. Hit the firewall first. I'm not sure if this is any better with a TR.
 
Steve:

Please consider the source first. I'm very
much a non-wrench TR6 owner.

I had already pulled my tranny out completely when
replaced the buggered up DPO's drive shaft with a
replacement shaft from Paul Brosky.

I slid the new shaft rearward in almost a horizontal
position and then fit it onto the differential. I
had a professional mechanic (Dave the Canada guy) helping
me step by step.

If my non-mechanic memory serves me, the clearance we
needed for this task was much greater than the small
amount of horizontal/vertical movement you might get
by <span style="color: #000099">safely</span> jacking on the tranny.

At the very least- greatly loosen the tranny to engine
bolts and then replace the nuts with new..

good luck, lets us know.

d
 
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Please consider the source first. I'm very
much a non-wrench TR6 owner.</span></span>

Dale: your far too modest!
 
Steve,
When I was doing the 5 speed conversion this winter I tried to slide the drive shaft in from the cockpit with no success....that drive shaft tunnel is pretty narrow. I didn't try and force it as my exhaust system and diff were also off the car so it easy to get it in from underneath. Herman had told me that it can be done from the cockpit so that's why I gave it a try. As far as sliding the tranny to the side.....I don't see how you can do that as it's bolted solidly to the engine. If you loosen the bell housing bolts and try to move the tranny tail over, you run the risk of damaging the input shaft or bushing.
 
I bit the bullet and dropped the differential. While there I replaced all six u joints.
 
I have not tried it, but on my tR4A if my memory serves there is not much room between the bell housing of the trany and the opening in the fire wall. I don't know if you would get the room you need before the engine/tranny hit the limit of movement be it vertical or horizontal. Let us know if it works as I am thinking of replacing U joints.
 
all good points to consider, thanks. and yes! dale IS far too modest; he and several others on this forum were indespensible for the advice i got on last month's clutch job!!

last nite, i managed to remove the the rear tranny flange (there was just enough space to back it off the tranny output shaft after unbolting the driveshaft from the diff and pulling the driveshaft rearword as far as possible).

as i half expected, removing the tranny flange alone did not give me the necessary clearance. i was about to follow thru on my plan to lift the rear of the tranny off the mount when i had to take a work related call.

fingers are crossed, if i get home at a decent hour tonite we'll see what happens when i lift the rear of the tranny.

bob, i tend to agree with you there, i will not loosen the engine/tranny bolts for fear of damaging the input shaft. leaving those bolts fastened, i'll be hoping to get about an inch to the left and another inch upwards, but to be honest i'm not sure how much give there'll be with the front engine mounting.

doug, plan 'b' will be dropping the diff. if possible i don't want to get wrapped up in replacing all those other u-joints just yet, i just want to get the thing on the road to enjoy the last few weeks of warm weather.

thanks again everybody
 
Unless a the 6 is far different from a Spit this seems like a lot more work than dropping the exhaust. 3 nuts at the flange and 4 or 5 hangers including the muffler.
 
it's a no go on lifting the tranny.. i would need to raise it at least 4 inches for the driveshaft to clear; and there's no left-to-right play with the tranny once it is off of the rear mount.

and so it was on to plan 'b', dropping the diff. turned out to be pretty easy (heck everything seems easier after the clutch job from last month!). no need to remove the exhaust pipes in my case. once i disconnected the connections at the 4 mounts and the two axle shaft flanges, i was able to slowly lower the diff (using floor jack) and twisting it here and there was able to get by the exhaust.

turns out the diff is leaking fluid pretty bad at the front. so looks like i'll be replacing that oil seal. i assume this is going to be very similar to replacing the rear tranny seal, anybody care to share a good diff oil seal horror story?? always like to know what i'm getting into!
 
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