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Doors are on but...
- Thread starter JPSmit
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Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
Support the back of the door with a scissors jack, and then work to get clearance correct. It just takes time but there is limited amounts of clearance to futz with.
Jer
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I have only "tweaked" the drivers door on my Midget, but on other vehicles that I have had the "pleasure" installing & adjusting doors in the past, as mentioned above get a scissor jack to support, doesnt hurt to cover edges with masking tape (to protect the enivitable slpis) & then start by getting the obvious adjustments done (make the door fit in the opening with out hitting paint), then make the small tweaks to line up the panels, remember a 1/16 of an inch adjustment at one end of the door can change the alignment a considerable amount at the other end, have patience & don't be afraid to use a few shims or gentle "encouragement"...
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
J-P,
Tools needed, wood shims, paint stir sticks are perfect for this application.
Also the 6" adjustable monkey wrench works to stop those annoying oilcanning sounds when you open the door and it rubs on the front door edge. The box wrench is great for tweaking the alignment of the A-Post or bending it out of the way as needed. Really provide some precise control to get the doors aligned and tweaked. I feel for you as I went through this with Bugsy over several days last year after replacing the A Post on the DS. Everything looked good until I needed to fit the door. I had the WTH do I do now experience.
I could not find suitable PosiDrive Screws for the door and substituted some low profile hex head bolts.
Scissors jack definitely needed to support back side of soor with you are bolting things together. Loosen the door striker or take out completely at first so you can get door to open and close without that complication as well.
Tools needed, wood shims, paint stir sticks are perfect for this application.
Also the 6" adjustable monkey wrench works to stop those annoying oilcanning sounds when you open the door and it rubs on the front door edge. The box wrench is great for tweaking the alignment of the A-Post or bending it out of the way as needed. Really provide some precise control to get the doors aligned and tweaked. I feel for you as I went through this with Bugsy over several days last year after replacing the A Post on the DS. Everything looked good until I needed to fit the door. I had the WTH do I do now experience.
I could not find suitable PosiDrive Screws for the door and substituted some low profile hex head bolts.
Scissors jack definitely needed to support back side of soor with you are bolting things together. Loosen the door striker or take out completely at first so you can get door to open and close without that complication as well.
OP
Online
what I learned.
1. you all pretty much summed it up - thanks. didn't need the jack though. but I should have used more tape.
2. much easier if no rubber gaskets are present. I even took the one off the front windshield/ vent window/ door joint.
3. was on all hinges I only had one bolt tight, then, I could (for instance) loosen the one lower bolt and adjust the door by pivoting on the upper bolt. I tightened the others only after all was in place.
4. I took off the latch plate but left the smaller striker? plate. this helped me align depth and gave the door something to hang on at the rear.
5. A breaker bar with a socket is critical. then you can loosen and re-tighten quickly without adjusting a socket and one handed and before the door sags.
about 20 min per door and I am good to go - Hurray!
1. you all pretty much summed it up - thanks. didn't need the jack though. but I should have used more tape.
2. much easier if no rubber gaskets are present. I even took the one off the front windshield/ vent window/ door joint.
3. was on all hinges I only had one bolt tight, then, I could (for instance) loosen the one lower bolt and adjust the door by pivoting on the upper bolt. I tightened the others only after all was in place.
4. I took off the latch plate but left the smaller striker? plate. this helped me align depth and gave the door something to hang on at the rear.
5. A breaker bar with a socket is critical. then you can loosen and re-tighten quickly without adjusting a socket and one handed and before the door sags.
about 20 min per door and I am good to go - Hurray!
