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Door glass

IanIrving

Jedi Hopeful
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I'm fitting a new door glass after mine shatterered, BJ8 MkIII, phase 2. Does anyone know a quick method of removing the residual bits of glass in the window channel, It's broken in many bits of course but is jammed into the rubber sleeving and stubornly refusing to come out. Would heat help? maybe the steel channel will expand more than the glass. Any tips welcome.
Thanks

Ian
 
Give the heat a try may work---Keoke
 
IanIrving said:
It's broken in many bits of course but is jammed into the rubber sleeving and stubornly refusing to come out.
Ian

The rubber strip on the bottom of the glass that presses it in the bottom window channel?
Any glass place should have rolls of that rubber strip. Or check your local hardware store for a similar strip of rubber. Maybe a bicycle tube will work? My memory is not to clear on the thickness of the rubber. Was it glued in?

Got a photo of it?
Cheers,
Roger
 
Hi Roger
I've got the strip from AH spares when I got the glass. I dont think the rubber is glued in, I'm going to try heat this morning to see if that frees up the old bits of glass.
Ian
 
Heat didn't help, in the end it was just a case of application of elbow grease. With the aid of a screwdrider, same width as the channel inner, it took about an hour to get it all out. Rubber not glued in but 45 years of contact ensured almost the same effect. Now into refitting the glas. Hopefully the car back on the road tomorrow.

Ian
 
Ok glass is in, a PITA to fit, the grease in the slides, probably 45 years old, had set like glue. In addition the new nylon guides wouldn't fit into the frames without trimming. Having cleaned out all the old grease the window does rise and fall ok but is stiff. I'd now like to know what to use to re grease the slides if indeed any grease is needed. Advice please on what you guys use.

Thanks Ian
 
A thin smear of synthetic greaseshould be good for the tracks. Also clean and grease the gear and winder while you're in there.

With everything cleaned and freshly greased, the window should not be difficult to raise or lower. If it is, then it'll be overworking something else, so you might as well figure it out now, or you'll be back in there sooner than you want to be.
 
The forward brass track may not be shaped correctly or properly alignhed in the door causing the glass to bind in that track.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
While on the subject of windows, does any one make GOOD nylon glides that don't break every year? I buy them by the hand full to be prepared.
 
tahoe healey said:
While on the subject of windows, does any one make GOOD nylon glides that don't break every year? I buy them by the hand full to be prepared.
I don't know, even the ones back in the day where always laying in the bottoms of the doors; the originals weren't too good either.
 
tahoe healey said:
While on the subject of windows, does any one make GOOD nylon glides that don't break every year? I buy them by the hand full to be prepared.

I do not think so TH I had some NOS ones when I did my windows and I have not had any trouble out of them.---Keoke
 
tahoe healey said:
While on the subject of windows, does any one make GOOD nylon glides that don't break every year? I buy them by the hand full to be prepared.

I bought mine from Moss. No problems with them. I think they may break because they are under stress in the channel.

Keoke makes a good point about the front channel.

I spent a lot of time making the channel track consistent in width and curve that followed the curve of the window. I used a socket as a guide for correct channel width. When I first tried to roll the socket in the channel, it would hang up in certain areas. The curve was also off. After making those adjustments, the nylon guides actually glide in the channels.

Attention also has to given to the rest of the window system to ensure everything else moves easy without binding.

When I first got the car, it took both hands to roll the windows up and down.
After about two weeks of constant adjustments, my windows now roll up and down with the use of just my thumb and index finger. My nylon guides are not under any undo pressure anywhere in the channel.
 
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