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TR6 Door gaps on a tr6

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jackag91

Jedi Warrior
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Ok, so I got the first floor board in. I made A LOT of mistakes but it is in.

The question I have now is how bad of a job did I do. The rear panel doesn't seem to lining up right with the holes in the rocker. About 3/16th of an inch off.

Can someone let me know what a reasonable gap between the rear panel and the door should be on an stripped down TR6. By stripped down I mean no motor, nothing in the car.

By the way did I mention that I made a lot of mistakes doing this.
 
Here are some pics if it helps.

This is the passenger side. I replaced the floor board on this side

P1010064.jpg


This is the driver's side. I haven't touch this side other than taking everything off and putting it back on again.

P1010065.jpg
 
jackag91 said:
Ok, so I got the first floor board in. I made A LOT of mistakes but it is in.

The question I have now is how bad of a job did I do. The rear panel doesn't seem to lining up right with the holes in the rocker. About 3/16th of an inch off....
Click to expand...
The first one is always the hardest.
On the rockers, I had to weld up the rear holes and put in new ones to match the rear wing. The front holes matched up with the fender.

When you finally drop in the engine and transmission and other heavy parts the frame will flex down. This will cause the rear of the door to lower, and it will cause the B post to tilt more to the front of the car. Both actions will close the rear door gap at the top, and rear door clearances at the bottom. The additional weight may also cause the rear bottom of the door to stick out.

One other thing that has not been mentioned is to insure when the door gaps are set, that the door windows still match up with the wind screen I had some problem there that almost made me want to junk the project (just kidding, sort of).
 
My previous post was before I saw your pictures. You are looking real close.

A few questions, is the entire tub securely bolted to the frame at all points? I ask this because it does affect how the tub flexes.

Also, how many shims do you have under the floor just before the B post? Removing shims will cause the B post to drop and move forward, closing the gap. But it will also cause the door to sit higher then the rear fender requiring additional adjustment.

Lots of fun...
 
jack, im going to look for some pis of mine when i did the floors. if you plan on doing the other side here is a trick i used. first you can see once you weld everything and then take braces or jacks out the door gaps will change. when i welded in a new floor i did it on the frame bolted down and i did not use any bracing. once the new floor was in and i was getting ready for the rocker to be welded in i took a ratcheting belt and went from the a post to the b post and pulled it together. i took a jack and went under the a post an jacked it into the position i wanted it and then went a bit more to account for sag. once it was welded and i took the jack out and the belt out the door closed beautifully and the gap is nice and close. hope that helps you some.
Randy
 
Thanks Randy, I will give it a try when I do the driver's side.
 
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