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Don't know what to look for

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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for most of the time Ms Triss has been on the road she has been leaking oil excessively. (OK all the time) I know some is normal but this truly is too much. I've tightened up everything oil pan related and this has helped considerably. However, I have been watching the location of the leaks and it now seems to be dripping from the two back corners of the oil pan.

I'm not sure where to look now - The thought that I had was that oil was seeping through #81 - but this is at the front, could it be seeping back?

any thoughts anyone?
 

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Are you sure it's not comming from the front seal? Mine (seal) is leaking badly too and needs to be replaced.

My oil sending unit was leaking too and seeping back.

They make a UV dye for oil to help trace leaks. You'll need the special UV light and glasses also, but it works pretty well. A good wash is a big help too.

If it's leaking that bad it should be easy to find. Pressure wash the crap out of it till it's all claen and run it in place at about 2500 RPM's and you shoul be able to see it.

Get 'er off the ground on 4 jackstands so you can see better.

Look at the bright side, if you run over any critters they are more likely to survive as the car will just slide over them. If not, they are pregreased and won't stick to the frying pan. :cowboy:
 
J-P -

Have you checked the flange to be sure the holes haven't dimpled from tightening; pretty common problem. You may need to lay the pan on top of a bench vise and "massage" the area around the mounting holes back into place.

Mickey
 
This works well sometimes: clean off the suspect area, get a spray can of foot powder and cover, say, the bottom front of the timing cover and around the front pan area. Drive it or fast idle it a bit and then check the results. If you're lucky, the oil leak will leave a nice, clear track through the white powder.
 
clean everything and try some baby powder where you think it's coming from if you don't have access to dye..works well
 
Mickey Richaud said:
J-P -

Have you checked the flange to be sure the holes haven't dimpled from tightening; pretty common problem. You may need to lay the pan on top of a bench vise and "massage" the area around the mounting holes back into place.

Mickey
Click to expand...

i agree with Mickey. it took me a bit to peen down and flat tile the divots in the oil pan to get it to seal well. the area is a bit troublesome to seal. Be careful not to strip the threads in the aluminum block that the inner two bolts thread into.


mark
 
Yeah, a flat oil pan flange is key.

And the two "little blocks of wood" need to situated correctly (My most recent gasket kit has two little rubber blocks instead of wooden blocks. Naturally, they were too big and had to be trimmed down).

Another thing is negative crankcase pressure. The Triumph engines are fussy about this.
My 1500 racer has a home-brew PCV system.......not for emissions purposes but to reduce crankcase pressure so that I don't blow oil out of the back of the pan. I learned this the hard way. My car blew oil out of the that area until I did this. It doesn't leak a drop these days, even after a 4-Hour enduro at racing speeds.
 
New engine should fix the oil leak problems. Mazda,Toyota,Nissan should be the fix.

Cheers

Mark
 
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