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TR2/3/3A Doesn’t want to start up again after a ride...

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HighAltitudeTR3

HighAltitudeTR3

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My TR3 has been doing this for the last month or so... I will go for a drive stop and when I try to start up again, it won’t start. It turns over fine, I have fuel in the float, and I can start it up again with a few sprays of starter fluid. It almost seems like the float bowls are bone dry (I haven’t checked that yet, but I be the first thing I do). Any other suggestions? I feel like this has happened to me before on another car and couldn’t remember the fix for it.

Thanks!!
 
I said I have fuel in the float and I meant the glass bowl on the fuel pump.
 
How long has it been sitting when this happens, and does it restart OK after sitting for an extended period (hour or more)?
If so, you may be looking at vapor lock from engine heat boing the fuel in the carbs/fuel lines close to the engine after you shut it off and lose cooling airflow through the engine compartment. Solution for that could be as simple as a heat shield to keep the engine heat off the fuel.
 
I feel like Vapor lock is probably the solution. Maybe I’ll make something up and see if that fixes it.

Usually only occurs within 30 mins of shutting it off.
 
Joe Alexander makes some nice heat shields from heavy stainless sheet. Made a big improvement in my hot start issues.

https://i.imgur.com/JcIq2SR.jpg

Its heavy enough to support additional insulation, but my plan is to rig the electric fan to run for a few minutes after shutdown to reduce overall under-hood temps.

Real Soon Now :smile:
 
How hot is it outside? What kind of fan do you have? And yes good chance of vapor lock. That being said, an older tr3 motor with high miles and lower compression and a rich fuel mixture will have an effect also. We have been having 90 degree weather and my car would start better if it was a cooler out, but it will start. How much do you push the gas pedal down when it is hot outside and the engine is hot/warm? Try giving the car more air by push the gas pedal down more when starting.
 
It’s 85/90 out. I have a hurricane fan. Although I have good compression.

I don’t feel it’s a matter of pushing the gas down, I can push it 1/2, all the way, pump it, doesn’t matter... there isn’t any gas there to get it going. I’m guessing it’s mostly evaporated from the bowls.

Only happens with a hot engine on a hot day....
 
Have you tried the priming lever under the fuel pump before attempting to start the car under those conditions?
 
I have used the primer lever, just a tad bit more inconvenient than using starting fluid.
 
HighAltitudeTR3 said:
I have used the primer lever, just a tad bit more inconvenient than using starting fluid.
Click to expand...

Not sure I follow... 5 or 6 squeezes of the lever, compared to pulling off the air filters to use the ether.

Does using the priming pump help any?
 
I would try a different coil and perhaps condenser if you have one. Like you said it seems related to heat and maybe the high altitude and yeh maybe vapor lock. I look at spark plugs when I have problems and always try and have the best points, cap, and metal wires and a distributor I trust with all connections clean, so my spark is the best I can do. My car starts quick and shuts right off and that is a knock on wood kinda deal because it took me years to know the car. Plus I use the best fuel I think there is, Chevron. I have never had a heat shield, but I live in a cool climate for the most part.
 
Yeah, I’m still getting to know my car. I have a little slop in my distributor. When I was checking the points the other day I noticed a 5 degree (or so) variance. I wasn’t getting the snap back when I’d turn it.

With that being said, I could hear the fuel boiling today after a ride. Not sure why it’s so hot in there. It didn’t used to be a problem. The engine runs cool now - new radiator and new fan, new thermostat, new coolant. Strange.

I really think it’s just really hot and really dry here right now, probably driving the car a little harder than I used to because now I can...
 
I never pull the air filters off. Two quick sprays of ether and I’m off. (I have the old school metal mesh air filters on there)
 
Altitude lowers the fuel boiling point too. I drove a ‘67 VW in the mountain for years. I could only climb mountains at 25mph. If I tried to do 26mph it would vapor lock and fall on its face. I’d have to wait 15 minutes to restart it, no matter what I tried. Finally learned to never exceed 25 on a hill!
 
CJD said:
Altitude lowers the fuel boiling point too. I drove a ‘67 VW in the mountain for years. I could only climb mountains at 25mph. If I tried to do 26mph it would vapor lock and fall on its face. I’d have to wait 15 minutes to restart it, no matter what I tried. Finally learned to never exceed 25 on a hill!
Click to expand...
John,
While driving my TR3 in Colorado ( my home state)in the 60's, I now know why those VW's were so slow. That is except downhill. They were ****-on-wheels going downhill, especially the VW bus.
 
Well I might have gone the other way with this, but I ordered a new distributor.

Might not fix this... but I’m excited.
 
I would guess that a new dizzy will not cure your problem but it is a good way to throw money at the problem.
 
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