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TR2/3/3A Do rear leaf springs wear out?

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Joel Lester

Joel Lester

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Since completing my frame off restoration I've driven my '58 TR3 for about 1500 miles. Everything is peachy! The only thing I've noticed, now that I've had a chance to really get to know her... is the back end seems a bit "soft". Not like the other recent post where the guy notices substantial woggle when parked but more like in the fast sweeping corners the car really reacts to throttle steer (I'm sure Hamish knows all about that! LOL!).

Anyhow - the one thing I did not replace were there rear leaf springs. Pretty sure they are the originals - like 65 years old now. I've also noticed that the car hits the bump stops if I hit a big enough bump. I already checked the shock mounts and they are all good - plus the shocks are new.

Anybody got experience with how new leaf springs can effect the ride/handling of a TR3?

As always any input is greatly appreciated!

Joel
IMG_2731.PNG
 
Interesting question! If leaf springs are properly heat treated...in other words they are manufactured correctly, they may settle slightly over time and bumps. Since they are hardened, the usual failure mode is that one of the leaves cracks through. If it is an inner leaf, you must look very closely at the stack to detect the one that is cracked.

Our TR's do not have much travel, from strap to bump, so it is common to bottom out the rear springs in normal driving. The rubber bump stop is substantial compared to most cars, because it is actually part of the suspension. Due to the short travel, you get a lot of "topping out" also, over the top of humps in the road.

If settling is your problem, a spring shop can actually re-arch the curvature to bring the spring back into tolerance and raise the rear back up. Spring shops are getting to be harder to find, though. New springs may be your best option...But! If you look through the archives, you will find several threads in the last few years about new springs being too stiff.

If you are having darting issues as you get on and off the throttle, I would look very closely at the rubber bushings, the front pins, the rear shackles, and of course, the leaves for breakage. By far these areas wear out before you lose a spring. If you have wire wheels, make sure the hubs are not becoming worn too.

To finish off, the front suspension has the most wear components. Often a problem up front gets confused with being problem in the rear...
 
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Thanks John,
As usual... I really appreciate your vast experience and knowledge. I must say it is very comforting to hear about the "topping out" and frequent maxing out the rear suspension travel limits being a normal thing because that is EXACTLY what is happening!
Not only did I replace every single suspension bushing throughout the entire car front and rear but I upgraded to urethane bushings everywhere - even the bump-stops are urethane. The car drives extremely well and takes bumps very nicely - being a former go-kart racer I can be a bit too critical of handling characteristics perhaps. I can certainly live with the way the car is but as a hobby we are always looking for things to tweak and tinker with I guess...
Thanks again,
Joel
 
I strongly bet one of your top leaf springs is broke. I would say well over half of the tr3s I have taken apart has a broken top leaf. The top leaf is the only leaf that spans the whole length. They always break in the same place with a hair line crack right where they bolt at the axle. It is very difficult to see. You have to look very close, and it really does look like a hair is sitting there across the leaf spring. There is a place in Tacoma that will make them. They cannot be welded.

Steve
 
I improved the rear bottoming out by changing to tube shocks. Much better ride. but my original springs still work well. On a Healey we finished last year, one of the rear springs was broken so we ordered two new springs for the car. Ride improved!
 
Hi Joel I have some old springs out back. I can take a picture of where they break if that would help.

Steve
 
Just wanted to update anyone who might be interested in this...

Pulled the springs off and replaced with new. The old ones do not appear broken... however, both rear shocks are completely shot. Bought them brand new from Moss. Not sure what happened as I can't see how this was my fault and I'm sure I installed them correctly. But, both shocks are completely useless. No resistance whatsoever. Yes - they were full of oil! The other thing that is disappointing is that I bought them two years and one month ago - warranty is only good for two years. I'm going with heavy duty ones from Apple hydraulics which I know are supposed to be 15% stiffer but that is exactly what I want. Anyone else had trouble with their rear shocks blowing up like this? Cheap product or...???
 
Had one years back that looked fine but had sagged over it's life.No fun to change with the body on-frame. The fix was to add
a short leaf to the pack which brought it up to proper height .Naturally , left rear was the problem.But this fixed it nicely.
Even the most rabid concourse judge will not count the leafs....
Bummer on the shocks...
Mad dog
 
Joel, we seem to have the same luck...everything I buy dies the month the warranty runs out. I have never worn out an original rear shock, so have not tried the ones sold by the big 3. My problem is mostly making sure the rear shocks are firmly mounted so they don't start loosening the mounting bolts.
 
Thanks John,
I'm hoping with the new leaf springs and heavy duty rear shocks I will be nice and fit for many miles to come. I'll update once I get her on the road a test her out a bit. Also getting very close to getting the hardtop fitted so exciting times ahead! Don't you just love these cars!?!?
Joel
 
We're talking about original, lever shocks, right? If so, look into having them rebuilt or exchanged for rebuilt ones at World Wide Auto Parts, > Lever Shocks Dampers - Remanufactured By World Wide in house <. They have rebuilt a couple sets for me, most recently on my TR4A, and they will make them stiffer if you wish. Those shocks are serviceable, but that may require machine tools that you may not have.
 
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