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Do I need to pull the motor?
- Thread starter Baz
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This is the MGB?If so, I'll say: beg, borrow, steal or rent an engine hoist and pull the engine/trans unit. It'll SAVE you time and insure you're not struggling to install components, seals and gaskets.
It ~can~ be done in the car, but you will have the engine nearly half out to do it anyhow! Trying to do this in-situ is a task I'd not recommend for a first go.
If you're replacing just pushrods (with new ones), it wouldn't matter. Are you doing big-end bearings as well? If not, THOSE need to go back to the same places they're in now, for SURE.
It ~can~ be done in the car, but you will have the engine nearly half out to do it anyhow! Trying to do this in-situ is a task I'd not recommend for a first go.
If you're replacing just pushrods (with new ones), it wouldn't matter. Are you doing big-end bearings as well? If not, THOSE need to go back to the same places they're in now, for SURE.
OP
Baz
Yoda
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Yessir. Reason is, the wife just bought a GMC Envoy and it is considerably bigger than her Toyota, so much so that my workshop space in the garage is gone.DrEntropy said:
Did a compression test last night, #2 drops quite quickly, #3 drops slowly. Dropped some oil down the chambers and it's now gone (still a little there in 1 & 4).
I've never started the engine, machine shop will be taking care of the head stuff.
[Rant]
Got $2k of parts sitting here I can't do anything with because of her tank, was going to buy more.
[/Rant]
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Shove that monstrosity out inna snow!!! You NEED work-space. She can have it back at task's end. The beast was built to endure more severe conditions than sitting exposed to the elements it'll see in YOUR area for a while!
...and I'd s'pose you'll be sleeping on the garage floor for a while.
*sheesh* /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
...and I'd s'pose you'll be sleeping on the garage floor for a while.
*sheesh* /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
Sounds like you are rebuilding the motor. It will be less of a struggle if you pull the motor. Before ordering parts, measure the bores and check the crank to see if it needs to be turned. Having the motor on an engine stand will make it easier to plastiguage the crank and use a torque wrench, turn the motor during reassembly. Move the Envoy on to the driveway and when you are finished for the day, move your motor to a corner and put the Envoy back into the garage.
OP
Baz
Yoda
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That ~wasn't~ the intention, but I find myself in a 'if I replace the valve springs, I should replace the rods, replace the tappets, replace the cam...crank...etc infinity'Kimberly said:
That's not what I want because it really doesn't need it, only the cause of the loss compression.
Anyway. She agreed. Don't ask what I had to promise to get the B in there, but "It's just for a few weeks" - YEAH RIGHT! P.S. She did get the Envoy with the monster towing package! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
So, if I replace the rods & tappets, is there anything else that wears in conjunction with them, that ought to be replaced as well?
Y'all with me right? Be gentle, it's my first time.
rick_ingram
Yoda
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I would recommend replacing the cam and tappets as a unit. Are you certain that the cam has wear...or are you wanting to upgrade to a street cam?
OP
Baz
Yoda
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I didn't want to replace the cam unless I had to, nor any other internal components unless I have to. I won't know the true condition of the cam until I pull it. However, if someone has a fancy cam loafing around that they can part with...heh!
Right now, the machine shop is testing my head and valves to determine if the compression loss is upstairs, won't know for a few days. If so, then I can scale back repairs (inspection pending) in the block.
Right now, the machine shop is testing my head and valves to determine if the compression loss is upstairs, won't know for a few days. If so, then I can scale back repairs (inspection pending) in the block.
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Only a thorough teardown and inspection will tell. I'd only replace tappets if necessary. Primarily because it's ideal to do the cam at the same time. And all tappets are not created equal, get good ones.
My MGB cam is a Crane, tappets were from Specialty but they're gone now. Summit should have them.
My MGB cam is a Crane, tappets were from Specialty but they're gone now. Summit should have them.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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Here's my advice, pull the engine out, it appears you'va alray decided to do that. Reringing is only option when the bores are within spec and even then you need to hone the cylinders, you may very well find broken rings, common in bores with too much wear in them, 3 of the 4 top rings in the MGB customer engine I'm currently building were broken with two of the piston having ring land damage. As for the cam, I recommend APT cams and their 60+ rockwell c lifter, not cheap, but cheaper than doing this twice. Chances are you going to find worn cylinder bores and need to bore the engine anyway, the only MGB used engine I ever saw that I rebuilt that didn't need boring was a 30K mile engine a guy bought and we went through it, just to make sure it was in good shape, all others I've done in the past few years, maybe 15 or so MGB motors have all warranted boring,and new oversized pistons. Do this right, doing it twice will only cost more.
OP
Baz
Yoda
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Machine shop said the valves were absolute junk, seats badly worn, was surprised I got any compression reading at all.
I'll try and get the motor out this weekend, a club member has a hoist he will bring around. He has almost every MG from a 1936 TA though '65 B, so he's pulled a few motors in his time to be my eyes as far as the internal condition goes.
I'll replace the clutch while I'm in there too, the slave cyl leaks, gas tank & radiator are going t' cleaners.
I got tube shocks for the rear that I'll put in next week, front are going for rebuild. New leaf springs, V8 bushings all round, yeah!
This is FUN!
I'll try and get the motor out this weekend, a club member has a hoist he will bring around. He has almost every MG from a 1936 TA though '65 B, so he's pulled a few motors in his time to be my eyes as far as the internal condition goes.
I'll replace the clutch while I'm in there too, the slave cyl leaks, gas tank & radiator are going t' cleaners.
I got tube shocks for the rear that I'll put in next week, front are going for rebuild. New leaf springs, V8 bushings all round, yeah!
This is FUN!
OP
Baz
Yoda
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I'll be honest, it's fun because I won't be doing the work; between the machine shop and the local LBC shop, they will do the serious mechanicals, I'm just giving them the parts.
Now it's in the garage, I can get it roadworthy enough to take it out to these places (tube shocks shouldn't be that difficult, brakes are done already, will rebuild the clutch/brake cylinders).
Just excited that progress is being made, plans in place with an estimated take off date of June 1st.
Now it's in the garage, I can get it roadworthy enough to take it out to these places (tube shocks shouldn't be that difficult, brakes are done already, will rebuild the clutch/brake cylinders).
Just excited that progress is being made, plans in place with an estimated take off date of June 1st.