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tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Who is the "distributer guy" for a rebuild? I'm getting a rhythmic faulter at 2500 rpm and I'm thinking there is a possible loose cam shaft. Can't feel it but I've tried everything else.
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Dizzy
- Thread starter tahoe healey
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OP
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Its more of a stutter than a flutter. It smooths out under load or at higher RPM. Idles very nice and smooth. It has been there since I owned the car over 6 years. I'd love to know what it is all about. Its just annoying. Its sometimes worse than others.
I've replaced:
coil,
dizzy cap and rotor,
HT wires,
plugs,
points and condenser,
fuel pump.
checked carbs for balance and leakes.
???????
I've replaced:
coil,
dizzy cap and rotor,
HT wires,
plugs,
points and condenser,
fuel pump.
checked carbs for balance and leakes.
???????
Ed_K
Jedi Knight
Offline
Tahoe,
The dampers and springs in the carbs are supposed to resist opening which is what gives a temporary rich mixture when you step on the gas. If the dampers where not working well and the springs were weak, then the car may hesitate right when you push down the gas pedal.
As an experiment, use an eye dropper with a small 2 inch long rubber hose attached and vacuum out the existing fluid from your carb dampers. Then fill the dampers with a much more viscous oil than you normally use in the dampers.
Example, if you normally use a 20 weight oil in the dampers, remove it and then fill your dampers with 30 weight motor oil.
Then drive the car as see if the hesitation is gone or improved. If it is, suspect weak/worn out carb damper springs as being the cause of your hesitation. If this experiment doesn't change anything, then just remove the 30 weight oil out of your dampers and refill with your normal choice of damper oil.
Then try something else...
If your distributor/cam/timing chain is sloppy and causing this hesitation, you should be able to see the timing mark move erratically when looking at it with a timing light attached and then revving the engine. If it seems to dance around at the same time as you notice " the hesitation " then it is indeed related to the dizzy or possibly a loose timing chain.
Ed
The dampers and springs in the carbs are supposed to resist opening which is what gives a temporary rich mixture when you step on the gas. If the dampers where not working well and the springs were weak, then the car may hesitate right when you push down the gas pedal.
As an experiment, use an eye dropper with a small 2 inch long rubber hose attached and vacuum out the existing fluid from your carb dampers. Then fill the dampers with a much more viscous oil than you normally use in the dampers.
Example, if you normally use a 20 weight oil in the dampers, remove it and then fill your dampers with 30 weight motor oil.
Then drive the car as see if the hesitation is gone or improved. If it is, suspect weak/worn out carb damper springs as being the cause of your hesitation. If this experiment doesn't change anything, then just remove the 30 weight oil out of your dampers and refill with your normal choice of damper oil.
Then try something else...
If your distributor/cam/timing chain is sloppy and causing this hesitation, you should be able to see the timing mark move erratically when looking at it with a timing light attached and then revving the engine. If it seems to dance around at the same time as you notice " the hesitation " then it is indeed related to the dizzy or possibly a loose timing chain.
Ed
dougie
Luke Skywalker
Offline
tahoe healey said:
Give Jeff Schlemmer with Advanced Distributors a call. Very helpful, does great work at a fair price and has fast turn-around.
https://www.advanceddistributors.com/
OP
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Carb springs were replaced 2 years ago and made no difference. With timing light I do see a little movement but not much. I'll check it again. thanks. darn, I hope not cause I just replaced the front seal and I don't want to do that job again soon.
Its fine when cold.
I'll give Jeff a callif the timing light showes movement.
Thanks all
Its fine when cold.
I'll give Jeff a callif the timing light showes movement.
Thanks all
healeynut
Jedi Knight
Offline
Jeff -
Get a timing light with a degree dial wheel on it, so that you can adjust the advance on the light. These timing lights are good because then if you put in 20 deg on the dial, when you accelerate your motor your TDC marks will line up when the dizzy is firing at 20 deg BTDC.
If you get one of these lights, you can then check your total advance on the car at 4-5K rpms. At that rpm, your dizzy should be firing in the range of 30 to 35 deg BTDC.
If that isn't happening, then there is a problem with your dizzy, or your timing is off.
Get a timing light with a degree dial wheel on it, so that you can adjust the advance on the light. These timing lights are good because then if you put in 20 deg on the dial, when you accelerate your motor your TDC marks will line up when the dizzy is firing at 20 deg BTDC.
If you get one of these lights, you can then check your total advance on the car at 4-5K rpms. At that rpm, your dizzy should be firing in the range of 30 to 35 deg BTDC.
If that isn't happening, then there is a problem with your dizzy, or your timing is off.
OP
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Have one. Today there was no movement with the timing light at idle. I will check at higher RPM. Thanks.
OP
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Thanks for the thought. Needles where checked years ago for set,centering and proper ones. I saw no wear but that could be it.
OP
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Happy Thanksgiving everyone for those in this country and others who don't recognise this day.
I was woundering about the vacuum advance tube as a possible source of the problem. I was reading another post about the tube and and it is an old piece of rubber tube that slips on easily. Vacuum leak, maybe?
I was woundering about the vacuum advance tube as a possible source of the problem. I was reading another post about the tube and and it is an old piece of rubber tube that slips on easily. Vacuum leak, maybe?
healeynut
Jedi Knight
Offline
The Vacuum advance is before the throttle, so it provides most advance as the speed of air through the venturi increases. Generally I think the affect is small and shouldn't cause the problems you describe, but replacing the rubber tube is a good idea.
Your weights should generally have the most affect on advance.
Best thing to do is to run the timing light on it and check your max advance at high rpm. That will tell you if you have a problem with your distributor.
Your weights should generally have the most affect on advance.
Best thing to do is to run the timing light on it and check your max advance at high rpm. That will tell you if you have a problem with your distributor.
JeffS
Jedi Trainee
Offline
The most common issue is fatigued advance springs in the distributor. tThey offer up WAY too much advance in the mid rpms, causing what can feel like a misfire or just a loss of power. Its very typical to see 10-15 degrees too much advance at 2500 rpms. Even with my most basic rebuilds, you get new advance springs and the "curve" is tailored to your car's needs.
You should look at your idle timing setting, then check for about 10 additional degrees at 2000, total of 32-36 degrees advance all-in by no later than 4000 with the vacuum line disconnected from the dizzy and plugged.
Jeff
You should look at your idle timing setting, then check for about 10 additional degrees at 2000, total of 32-36 degrees advance all-in by no later than 4000 with the vacuum line disconnected from the dizzy and plugged.
Jeff
OP
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
By your cars needs are speaking fo model (ie,BJ8)or individule car? Many years ago, when I got the car, one of the springs was just sitting on the bottom of the dizzy. Do you sell just the springs. They appeared to be the same of both where my MGB had one with a longer arm on the "hook".
I will check the advance at 4000 rpms tomorrow if I get the chance. Thank you all very much.
I will check the advance at 4000 rpms tomorrow if I get the chance. Thank you all very much.
JeffS
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Tahoe,
I tailor each distributor I rebuild to the engine specs that are included with the distributor when I receive it. I ask people to visit my website and print my "Curve Worksheet" to send with. Often times, street car curves are done the same, but high compression, DCOE carbs or anything out of the ordinary can require a subtle shift in timing.
No, I don't sell just springs since that's only a small portion of the equation. Reconditioning the advance weights, shaft, and cam are just as important, as is the AMOUNT of advance that a lot more difficult to tailor accurately. It almost always requires full disassembly of the distributor to properly recurve them so a simple pair of springs won't gain you much.
I tailor each distributor I rebuild to the engine specs that are included with the distributor when I receive it. I ask people to visit my website and print my "Curve Worksheet" to send with. Often times, street car curves are done the same, but high compression, DCOE carbs or anything out of the ordinary can require a subtle shift in timing.
No, I don't sell just springs since that's only a small portion of the equation. Reconditioning the advance weights, shaft, and cam are just as important, as is the AMOUNT of advance that a lot more difficult to tailor accurately. It almost always requires full disassembly of the distributor to properly recurve them so a simple pair of springs won't gain you much.
healeys4me
Senior Member
Offline
Tahoe,
a quick story related to this topic. My BJ8 had a complete engine overhaul in 2001. Everything new and improved (Petronics) was added for durability and reliability. The one thing that was not overhauled was the Distributor. My car ran good, never great. Acceleration was under performing as well as my idle was never smooth as other AH 3000's I drove. So my next move was to send the Dizzy to Jeff at advance for a rebuild. Best low dollar investment ever! Big improvements in low rpms and up the power band. Very smooth at all times.
No financial interest and all that stuff... But glad guys like this are around to help us keep our passions alive.
John McKeever
a quick story related to this topic. My BJ8 had a complete engine overhaul in 2001. Everything new and improved (Petronics) was added for durability and reliability. The one thing that was not overhauled was the Distributor. My car ran good, never great. Acceleration was under performing as well as my idle was never smooth as other AH 3000's I drove. So my next move was to send the Dizzy to Jeff at advance for a rebuild. Best low dollar investment ever! Big improvements in low rpms and up the power band. Very smooth at all times.
No financial interest and all that stuff... But glad guys like this are around to help us keep our passions alive.
John McKeever
Hi TH,
Used Advance Dist for a rebuild on the BJ-7 and number of little performance/drivability issues were magically resolved. I'm also plan to have a second one rebuilt to slightly different specs. And all this with points ignition. So I strongly recommend having the work done!
Hope all went well with the cylinder head.
Gonzo
Used Advance Dist for a rebuild on the BJ-7 and number of little performance/drivability issues were magically resolved. I'm also plan to have a second one rebuilt to slightly different specs. And all this with points ignition. So I strongly recommend having the work done!
Hope all went well with the cylinder head.
Gonzo