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Distributor shaft frozen, but why?

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christophe

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I finally managed to get our 3000 up and running the other day, but not for long. I noticed a noise that sounded like a bad bearing on the first couple of cranks, but I thought it was just the starter gear since it would do it sometimes when cranking, but not others. Once the car started I no longer heard it the noise. The car ran for about 15-20 seconds sounding the best it ever has, then it suddenly cut out. I thought the ignition system was at fault, but it turns out that the housing(picture below) that the distributor connects to, which has yet another shaft and drive gear, was the problem. I pulled it off today and found that the shear pin was broken. The shaft inside of the housing is frozen and will not turn. I tried to drive it out, but could only get it to the base of the housing and will need to take it to someone with a press.

Anyway, what would cause that shaft to freeze up. It was getting oil, so I am at a bit of a loss.
 
Shouldn't there be an oil line running from the block(near starter) to the spot where the bolt is on that distributor mount?
 
CraigC said:
Shouldn't there be an oil line running from the block(near starter) to the spot where the bolt is on that distributor mount?
Click to expand...

yes and there is. There was clearly oil flowing through it S indicated by risidual oil on the gears. I think my mechanic rinsed the housing with degreaser but he never took it apart and applied new grease to the shaft. I suppose some of the astringent cleaner could have remained on the shaft this causing it not to lubricate and fail. I initially had a dead coil and was cranking the car a good bit. This could have also contributed to it not getting oil quickly enough.
I do not have an extra. If anybody has one, let me know as I might be in the market.
 
CraigC said:
Shouldn't there be an oil line running from the block(near starter) to the spot where the bolt is on that distributor mount?
Click to expand...

YEP and it does not look like it was getting oil to me.

He should call Healey Surgeons and see if they have one to sell.
 
I assume you ran the banjo bolt back into the housing before taking the picture? Before attempting to remove the distributor drive shaft, I'm pretty sure you need to first remove the tach drive assembly. I would also take out the banjo bolt just in case it is interfering.
 
Keoke said:
YEP and it does not look like it was getting oil to me.

He should call Healey Surgeons and see if they have one to sell.
Click to expand...

Again, that was only removed so that I could remove the housing from the block. I thought that would be pretty obvious, but apparently not.
 
CraigC said:
I assume you ran the banjo bolt back into the housing before taking the picture? Before attempting to remove the distributor drive shaft, I'm pretty sure you need to first remove the tach drive assembly. I would also take out the banjo bolt just in case it is interfering.
Click to expand...

From the Moss catalog, "Internal Engine 100-6, 3000" page it looks like if you did as Craig suggests you could just tap (or whack) the shaft out. It's probably a combo of the seal and frozen grease holding the shaft in. You can replace the broken pin with a roll pin.
 
steveg said:
From the Moss catalog, "Internal Engine 100-6, 3000" page it looks like if you did as Craig suggests you could just tap (or whack) the shaft out. It's probably a combo of the seal and frozen grease holding the shaft in. You can replace the broken pin with a roll pin.
Click to expand...

It looks like it may potentially interfere when it gets to that point, but it hasn't reached it yet. I'm having a shop take the gear out today, then press the shaft out. I'll find out shortly if the metal is trashed inside the housing. Thanks
 
CraigC said:
I assume you ran the banjo bolt back into the housing before taking the picture? Before attempting to remove the distributor drive shaft, I'm pretty sure you need to first remove the tach drive assembly. I would also take out the banjo bolt just in case it is interfering.
Click to expand...
DING, DIng, Ding!! Give that man a cigar!

Yes, but now I suspect that the damage has been done; drive the shaft back into the housing, remove the tach drive, then remove the shaft. Depending on how you've lived the rest of your live__not for us to judge__maybe you only damaged the tach drive pinion gear...?

IMG_1060.jpg
 
Randy Forbes said:
DING, DIng, Ding!! Give that man a cigar!

Yes, but now I suspect that the damage has been done; drive the shaft back into the housing, remove the tach drive, then remove the shaft. Depending on how you've lived the rest of your live__not for us to judge__maybe you only damaged the tach drive pinion gear...?


I did not drive it far enough to hit the Tach Gear.

However the shaft is screwed. The metal is all mauled up and so is the housing after driving it out the rest of the way(AFTER removing the tach gear and banjo bolt).
Im still not sure why the failure occurred since oil was pumping to the housing. All i can assume is that my assumption in the previous post was correct.

I can't find the shaft extension in any of the books, so I guess they are not reproduced.
Click to expand...
 
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