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TR2/3/3A Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

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karls59tr

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Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

Found a pack of thin paper Dist shim gaskets in my parts bin. Cant remember if I used any during the rebuild. I assume these go between the the cast iron base of the dist and the block to take up clearances to a specific spec. Anyone shed any light on these shims and their use?
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

You are correct and they are used to set this height:
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

Procedure is on page B24 of the workshop manual. Basically you do a test assembly with an extra washer of known thickness, and measure how far it holds the distributor pedestal up. Then remove the washer and add shims to give .003" - .007" clearance.

But none of my engines have needed shims. Likely I will need them after replacing the shaft bushing, tho.
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

Sorry about that. Randall caught my mistake. I forgot to post the shim of known value in the beginning.
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

TR3driver said:
But none of my engines have needed shims. Likely I will need them after replacing the shaft bushing, tho.
Click to expand...

Quite possible. The drive gear on my engine was so tight I couldn't turn the camshaft (easily) without the proper shims in place. I decided I didn't need a new bushing.
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

And if you leave it too tight, the cam will be forced against the thrust surface, and it will ruin the cam. Old hard learned lesson there...
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

jessebogan said:
And if you leave it too tight, the cam will be forced against the thrust surface, and it will ruin the cam. Old hard learned lesson there...
Click to expand...

Don't worry, I added the shims to get the proper amount of backlash. I was mostly interested in seeing how much wear 30+years and unknown miles had caused on the bearing.
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

Another lesson for the Tinkerman. I did the testing and found that I had 0 float. I will be installing a shim tomorrow so that I can "button another one up" so to speak. I am making my own shim, measured at .004 from a piece of paper from the scratch pad that TRF put in orders towards last Christmas time.

Gotta love the BCF, Triumph group!

Tinkerman
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

OK... I have done this today, but cant find the proper procedure for my situation.

Test washer = .063"
Clearance between block and distributor base = .054"

Therefore, with NO gasket between the distributor base and the block I have .009" float -- more than the .003" - .007" recommended on page B24 of "the book."

Do I need a new $73.50 Dist. shaft bushing?

Could I put a shim washer between the bushing and the drive gear? Under the bushing in the block? My dist. base gasket is .010", making the total float .019". If I put a .015" shim in there somewhere, I'd be at .004" -- perfect...

Page B24 of "the book" doesn't spec a restorative procedure for too much float -- only too little float.

Or... should I put it back together with no gasket under the dist. base and call .009" "good enough for a 49-year-old car?"
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

IMO, leave the gasket out and call it good enough. Use a little Hylomar to seal it, though.

But putting a .015" shim under the oil shaft bushing would probably work, too.
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

I figured you'd say that, Randall. You're probably right.

But if I do want to go crazy on this, how does that bushing come out? Do I remove all the stuff on top, and the oil pump, and bang it out from the oil pump side? I never did take it out while the engine was all apart. The shaft fit so nicely, I didn't see the need. :frown:
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

That's the only way I see to get it out without damaging it; short of making a special puller for it.

You could try a simple puller made of the business end of a 'toggle' bolt mounted on some threaded rod; but I doubt that would be strong enough. And when it breaks it would likely bung up the bushing you are trying to save.
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

TR3driver said:
IMO, leave the gasket out and call it good enough. Use a little Hylomar to seal it, though.
Click to expand...
You were completely right, Randall! I thought I'd see how easy it was to get the bushing out, but the oil pump is glued on very nicely -- Wellseal on both sides of it's paper gasket. "Oh, the heck with it!" I thought. The very first lockwasher I tried to put back on the oil pump stud fell into the motor and disappeared. I looked EVERYWHERE. The only place it could be is through the oil return slot into the pushrod gallery. Now I've got to pull the head back off.
GRRRRR....
 
Re: Distibutor "base" shim gaskets TR3

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The only place it could be is through the oil return slot into the pushrod gallery.[/QUOTE]
Yup... That's where it was. (It didn't take me all this time to remove the head. I had to go cool off for a while.)
 
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