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Disk brake conversion

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ChrisS

ChrisS

Jedi Knight
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What have folks done / seen to the pedal box when upgrading from drums to disks in the front? I've got a pedal box out of the donor car, but of course they are different cut outs. Seeing that I need to modify the opening does it make sense to upgrade to an aftermarket setup? Your thoughts please.
 
Chris, unless you just switch to the early disc single circuit M/C, you're going to be cutting sheet metal, so why not consider the aluminum Tilton pedal setup. Individual, easily rebuildable master cylinders, front and rear, and a built in proportioning setup. That's what most of us are running on the race cars.
Whichever you decide, make sure to reinforce the cutout area, as you will be disturbing the original when making the new cutout. You really don't have to cut much when installing the stock, late model setup.
Jeff
 
When you use the late model stuff there is no need for reinforcment and just a little bit of cutting,(you can even use some of the existing mounting) holes and all the parts will swap easily.(brake lines,clutch lins, etc.) I race a number of sprites and I have found the adjustable brake system needless. For me the stock system works just fine. I feel it would be a real waste of money on a street car. i
I strongly recommend that if you convert to disc, you need to put in the whole late model system. Rear brake, front brake and pedal assembly. You will be glad you did. It will work like the engineers designed it to. I have tried the other options and I always find the later stock stuff works better, on a steet driver for sure.
 
Jolly. I pretty much agree about the stock system on a street car. I was just tossing out options, as Chris asked.
I raced a Bugeye for a long time with the stock disc setup, but when I built the "new" '62, I went with rear discs, and the Tilton pedals and cylinders. It hasn't seen the track yet, but should this spring. The main reason I went to rear discs is for the weight. Right now, with <u>my</u> lard butt geared up and sitting in the car, the weight with 6 gallons of fuel is 1535. So, I have to ballast up to 1577 (with an empty fuel cell) to be sure I'm legal. But, I can put it where it <u>needs</u> to go.
Jeff
 
Where do you race a sprite with rear disc? I abandoned the SCCA long ago. Are they now allowing rear disc on the tube framed sprite glass bodied sport racers? If so this goes right along with the rear wheel drive mini cooper bodied sport racers.
In the vintage realm where I now spend my racing days driver weight seems to be of no concern. I keep telling guys it would be cheaper(and healthier) to just lose weight than to buy the latest go fast goody. It is easier to buy the goodies.
 
The SCCA allowed us to switch to rear discs awhile ago. Calipers are free, but the rear discs have to be no larger than the front.
I don't race with the Socially Correct Car Association any longer either, but my organization, Waterford Hills Road Racing,( https://www.waterfordhills.com ) pretty much follows the GCR for general rules. We are the ones that put on the Meadowbrook Historic vintage races until a few years ago.
I've still got my old, all steel, H Prod Bugeye for vintage, and a Fiat 850 Spyder that was last run at the Chicago Historics in '95. I bought that last fall in a moment of insanity.
I hit my weight plateau a few years ago. I don't gain, but I don't lose either. Now I just take it off the car where I can.
What outfit are you racing with down there? Are they still doing the Spec Sprites in Texas??
Jeff
 
Thanks for the info.
Jeff: What does your rear disk conversion consist of and do you use the stock pedals with tilton reservoirs or a complete tilton setup and if so which one?
 
Chris, I bought the disc setup as a complete kit from The Winners Circle. It comes with Wilwood DynaLite single piston calipers, custom rear discs,mounting brackets, and attaching hardware.
I can't find either the box for the pedals, or the receipt, so I can't tell you what the part number of the pedal assembly is. I'll keep looking, or you could call Rob or Dave, at 216 889 4666, https://www.spridget.com
The cylinder part numbers are Tilton numbers, 74-625U for the front, 74-750U rear, and 74-700U for the clutch. They all come with a remote reservoir kit if you wanted to relocate the reservoirs.
I'll keep looking for the receipt, and if I find it, I'll let you know the number of the pedals.
Jeff
 
Yes, we are still doing the spec thing with CVAR. We have good core group that is keeping with the story. Five or six guys are still specing. Having some trouble finding a spec tire. The companies that make them always seem to quit making them after a year or two. I am the guy who started it so I kinda have to do the leg work to find a suitable tire.
 
JR, I always thought that the Spec Sprite was such a great idea, and never understood why it didn't take off the way I expected. At the first, I was ready to build one, but it just never happened up here. DRAT!
As far as tires go, have you thought about Hoosier Street TD's? I'm sure you have, but they are probably too sticky for the class intent. I remember running on Yoko A008R's at one time. They suck, if there is the least little bit of moisture. In the air. Within 500 miles of the track. If an armadillo urinated in turn 6 in the past 90 days.
You get the picture.
I really would love to see Spec Sprite developed more around the country. It would give us Grass Roots boys a lot more fun, hold the cost down, and just generally benefit the sport.
You are to be commended for the whole idea.
Remember the Sprite/Mini Challenge series a few years back? That was a ball.
Jeff
 
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