• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Disc grease application?

T

Tinster

Guest
Guest
Offline
So OK! I'm finally getting the pieces of the
passenger wheel hub back together and installed.

Since I live by the ocean, rust develops overnight on unprotected steel.

I totally forgot about the disc brake disc when I
removed it this past Sunday. Now it is covered with
rust.

I have re-installed the hub and bearing and tightened
the hub/disc to 30#.as per Bentley. All threads cleaned
up nice with tap and die.

Should I wet sand off the rust with maybe #1500 paper?
Do I then apply a coating of the special disc brake grease
I purchased or do I coat the disc with some other type of
oil to keep it from rusting?

Thanks as always,

d

discGrease1.jpg
 
Yikes! don't do that Dale.

Your brakes will not work if you put grease or oil on them, and your new pads will be ruined.

The rust will come off the first time you stop the car.

Make sure you use some brake cleaner or lacquer thinner to clean the fingerprints / grease marks off the disc surfaces before you reinstall them.

Good luck.

Matt
 
Thanks Matt!

But at this point is no longer matters.

I cannot begin to say how much I hate DPO Pedro.
I mean, I really, really, REALLY hate that scumbag!

I had the wheel hub and brake disc mounted and was
getting ready to final out the project by tightening
down the castle nut and sliding in the cotter pin.

Out of frigging nowhere.................
I get Pedro-ized!! I had to pull everything apart.
One of DPO Pedro's stripped out wheel studs, that
he had welded in-place, suddenly fell off.

Now I'm back to a bare hub- going out to find a welding
shop to weld the wheel stud back in place.

pedroized.jpg
 
My complete and total loathing of this dishonest SOB
knows no limits!!!!!!!!!

PedroPhoto.jpg
 
I don't think they are supposed to be welded in, or rather I know they are not supposed to be welded in! I kind of think that that might not have been the correct size stud? There was a big discussion about this a while ago so someone who knows will probably show up soon.
 
Tinster,

Ever think about trading room and board this winter for some body to repair your Triumph?

Something like a B&B but only a B&G (Garage)..

Your visitors could also smuggle in parts..

If you did this for some time you could build another car one piece at a time..Just like Jonny Cash!

Good luck.
 
The studs are pressed in, not welded. If the stud comes out easily, you might just need a new hub.. which can be had pretty cheaply from ebay. (I bought two for $20.00)

You don't need a press to install them.. a few hammer taps will do.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif Time to start browsing for a new hub. You can have the stud tacked back in to drive in the meantime, but don't let them get the whole hub too hot or it will distort.

I prefer to pull the studs into place with a stack of flat washers and a nut. Just personal preference, but it means I can replace a stud without removing the hub from the car. And since the studs are much harder than the hub is, I worry about damaging the splined area in the hub if the stud gets cocked while driving it in with a hammber. Pulling it ensures it goes in straight.

FYI, although "wire wheel" hubs carry a different part number than "disc wheel" hubs; the only difference is the length of the studs. You can convert a wire wheel hub to disc wheel by replacing the studs.
 
The studs are pressed in place, not welded.

First thing is to find a good Dorman(hardware) distributor, they sell automotive nuts and bolts. Most good parts stores carry there stuff, or can get it(Napa, CarQuest, etc.) Dorman sells oversize studs, i.e., the splined body where they fit in the hub are slightly oversized, threads the same. Just take your stud into a parts house with a Dorman catalog and they should be able to get one for you.

If you suffer a good parts house shortage, then the next step would be to obtain new(or good used) hubs, which didn't used to be expensive.

Oh, forgot about the surface rust, it is just that, will disappear first time you use the brakes. Look at any used car lot down there where the cars sit for a couple of days without moving and you'll see the same thing on their rotors. No Big Thing. The brake grease, is to be used on the back of the pad where it has the silencer pad placed, and on the back of the silencer contact area with the piston, and on the edges of the pad where they may come in contact with the caliper and pins. Squealing is caused by vibration, most vibration that cause it, comes from the pad contact with the piston and sides of the caliper. When you take you pads off next time, look at shiny contact areas on the edges and back of the pad(not the friction surface) and you will see contact movement, lube those spots.
 
I bought new hubs from TRF a few years ago. Not that expensive.
 
Thanks all-

Having once been dirt poor and changing tires
for $0.65 per hour to buy clothing, I am very
familiar with the process of "pulling" studs
into place.

I need to give Wendy back her half of the garage-PRONTO.
Wendy is once again speaking of a visit to "The Crusher"
Not a real good time to sending $300. more to TRF for new
hubs.

Got about $500 in Crypty parts last month and still waiting
for a $200 parts delivery to arrive. $300 more could well
mean a trip to "The Crusher" for Crypty.

$275 big ones to weld the two loose wheel studs back
onto the hub. I offered a 1/2 day tarpon fishing trip
in lieu of cash. Done deal.

d
 
I installed Dorman #610-114 into my front hubs. They are a little longer and will need cut down. I used a 9/16" reamer to bore out the hole to accomodate the larger shoulder.
 
Tinster said:
$275 big ones to weld the two loose wheel studs back onto the hub.
Holy &#|^ !!!
I'm gonna move to PR and take up being a mechanic !

Here in LaLa land, I can walk into any welding shop and get it done for $50, and even that's more than the job is worth IMO (half hour minimum for a job that takes less than a minute). Friend would do it for a 6-pack.

For that price, you could buy a welding setup and do it yourself !
 
Back
Top