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Differential leak

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tr6web

tr6web

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Me again. I have a drip coming from the front end of the diff somewhere. I guess it's time to replace the gasket? How hard is it to replace this and what does it entail? If I have to take off the cover or remove it, how do I get it off, is it heavy (do I need a lift or something underneath it), and any tips on replacing the gasket? I have the manuals...just wanted some plain english explanation. Thanks!
 
It sounds like your front seal. I just replaced the diff mounts on my TR6 last night and it's not too hard to remove the diff. First mark the shafts and remove the bolts from them. Then support the diff with a floor jack and remove the rear mounts and remove the nuts from the front mounts.. then slowly... CAREFULLY lower the jack just enough to clear the rear bolts, then scoot the jack (and the diff) towards the rear of the car (very gently) so that the front diff mount clears the chassis. At this point you'll have to support the front of the diff with one hand while you lower it. I think it weights about 50 lbs.

I've never taken the diff apart so maybe another nice person knows how to do that.

Please email me if you have any questions.

-Shannon
 
Thanks, Shannon...love plain english explanation! Just one question...I'm not sure what you mean by the shafts (yes, I'm a newbie). I just want to make sure I mark what you're talking about since I assume that I'll have to line the diff back up right to the marks.
 
Hello Tr6web,
the potential problem you may have in changing the seal is upsetting the pinion setting on the differential. TR6's from commission number CP52868/CC61571 used a collapsible spacer to set the pinion. Check carefully what your manual says about changing the seal before you slacken the drive pinion. Looking at the parts book I have it may be possible to do the job without removing the differential from the car.

Alec
 
You've got 3 "shafts" that bolt to the diffs. One drive shaft and two axles. Before you unbolt them, you need to make a little mark on each so you can bolt them back the same way they came off. If you look at the way they're bolted on you'll know what I mean.

Also, get a manual.. I've got a Bently and a Haynes, between the two of them I can usually figure everything out. I think that changing the front seal is pretty straight forward once the diff is out of the car. But I won't know until I get home from work.

-Shannon
 
Thanks again all. My 72 is CC76761 so does that mean that I most likely don't have a collapsible spacer?
 
Hello Mike,
that number is down the line from the numbers I quoted, so it more likely has. As I said check your manual carefully. When the differential is built, the pinion nut is tightened slowly until the correct pre-load is achieved. You probably can mark the nut relative to the differential casing and count the number of turns to remove it. Replace with exactly the same number of turns and to exactly the same position. If the nut is overtightened the differnetial will need a new collapsible spacer and re-setting. Also, as I said there is probably a good chance you can do the job in situ. Check the input drive flange for wear where the seal runs. If it is worn, drive the new seal to a different position so as to run on an unworn area of the pinion.

Alec
 
It looks like one of the axle shafts on my 73 TR6 has been removed. I say this because one gaiter is much newer looking than the other one. How would I know if the axle shaft was not bolted back in the original position. Would I feel it when I was driving? I looked into pulling it apart. Doesn't seem like much work. But I need to know how its "supposed" to go back together. Is it obvivious once its apart? I hate not knowing if the PO was cafeful when fixing things. Rather spend a couple of hours to make sure its right than always wonder and wait for something to go wrong. Thanks to all who answer.
 
A few drops from your front seal is not uncommon, especially when the car sits for extended periods. If you do go after the seal, soak it for a day or so in oil before installation, and DON'T overtighten the pinion nut as others have suggested. Lot's of late diffs get trashed this way. The side axles can only go two ways. If you are tracking a vibration you can try marking the [position on the flange and rotate each side 180 degrees (one at a time) to see if it helps. More often than not, though, wheels or hubs are to blame for that. Since you aren't complaining of vibration, you are probably fine. Just check for the proper nylock nuts on the flange bolts and drive her!

Jim
 
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