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Dielectric Grease

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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A number of years ago, 2001 or 2002, I went to a National TRA event in North East Ohio. I sat through a tech session about Lucas connectors and wiring in general. Interesting and informative session. One thing that stuck out in my mind was using dielectric grease.

I now own a small tube of it and was wondering if anyone out there uses it, has used it and what the general thoughts are about the use of it and where to use it?

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Get a large tube, use it on any connection.
 
I use it on EVERY electrical connector, whether it be bullet, bulb or Lucar.If it's a new one, a little on both sides, if it's an old connector, it's a good idea to clean them up first. I've never had an open or partial open circuit on
anything that had dielectric grease on it.(Unless of course it wiggled loose!)
FRank
 
What you have to realize, is that dielectric grease is <span style="font-weight: bold">nonconductive.</span> It was really meant to apply after the connection is made to keep out moisture and dirt, and to lubricate any rubber fittings associated with the connection. Sometimes it's impossible to apply afterwards, and then you are relying on the pushing on of the connector to move the grease from the connection.

If used properly, it will prevent corrosion on the terminals, but realize that it is nonconductive and does nothing to help the actual connection electrically. Applying after the connection is made is preferable, but if you can't, use sparingly.
 
Thanks for the info. I certainly had the wrong messqe in my mind about it. Art your comments explain the comments on the back of the package "Reassemble, maintaining metal to matal contact."

I will use it but, sparingly.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
I use it on everything (electrical - I don't want visions of Windex and the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding dancing around) and have been very happy with it. Art is correect that it is non conductive but a good connector should displace the grease at the point of contact and make an electrical connection. If the connector does not do that there are other problems with the connector. It is my view (and I have always done this, both with my LBCs and at work) that the dialectric grease should be put on before the connection is made so that all parts of the coneector that could otherwise be exposed to corrosion are protected. Also, and I think this is the big advantage, it keeps air and maoisture out of the connection. I even use it on my boat trailer lighting connector to the truck.
 
Those of us in the electrical field use an industrial strength type stuff for all connections. Icky stuff, get a little on you and pretty soon it's everywhere.

Same with this stuff, Give the connection a little twist on it's way together and all will be well.

The main thing I have found it my 25 years of playing with these things is the ground connector on the various lights, those for some reason are the first to go, which gives you all manner of gremlins. A thorough cleaning and greasing of those will save a lot of misc. swear words.
 
I never use it, but I have a fairly new electrical system operating in a dry climate. I can see only a couple of advantages: (1) it will more or less seal out dirt and water, and (2) it might lubricate the surfaces that slide together, preventing galling and preserving the surface coating. This might help prevent corrosion. Even if you grease the contacts before mating them, the pressure should push enough grease out of the way to create a decent connection.

Connectors that are properly made, with mating surfaces plated to prevent galvanic corrosion, really shouldn't need this stuff. Problem is, the connectors in our cars are, to use the abstruse technical term, pretty crappy. My own feeling is that I'd rather make sure that the connections are tight and clean, and solder wherever possible, than to coat them with a nonconductive substance and hope it gets out of the way when the connection is made. But, in the final analysis, it becomes one of those "whatever works for you" issues.
 
71MKIV said:
Those of us in the electrical field use an industrial strength type stuff for all connections. Icky stuff, get a little on you and pretty soon it's everywhere.
Click to expand...

Gah, Hate the stuff! That and heat sink compound! If you use it I recommend wearing rubber/nitril gloves, as it makes clean-up soooo much easier.
 
Adrio - youi have the right idea - the stuff is almost useless unless you apply a dab BEFORE you assemble the joint.

Steve - unfortunately you cannot give a bullet connector "a little twist on it's way together" - they won't revolve in the socket, it is too tight (or if it isn't, something is wrong).

The main thing people don't like about this stuff can be aleviated by not using too much of it - then you get little squish effect and a quick wipe will leave a sealed clean connector.

A common miscocneption (by those that don't know the root of the word) is that 'dielectric' means that it DOES conduct and facilitates an electrical connection. This is quite wrong - it does nothing at all (which is exactly what you want, rather than having short circuits all over the place) for electrical connections except seal them from the weather. Great for helping tight spark plug boots on, for instance. If you didn't have a decent electrical contact to start with, this stuff isn't going to improve that situation.

One other thing it does do is create a contact to conduct heat - which you need between a base and electronic ignition modules lest they burn out, for example.
 
I use "Copaslip" anti-seize compound instead. It has copper granuals in it that enhance the electrical connection, and it prevents corrosion etc, just like diaelectric greese. Cheaper for a big tube - and you can use it as anti-seize on your suspension rebuilds.

Rob.
 
So Rob, what your saying is that "Copaslip" would be a conductive element and also provide the anti corrosion element?
 
Tinkerman said:
So Rob, what your saying is that "Copaslip" would be a conductive element and also provide the anti corrosion element?
Click to expand...

Yepper. At least, that is the theory. I have used similar stuff on industrial circut breaker contacts.

Rob.
 
remember, if the conductivity of that stuff is good enough then you may be introducing a conductive path between (what are suppose to be) separate conductors in a multi wire connector.
 
Wouldn't this work better than a dielectic. It prevents oxidation and promotes conductivity. It is used primarily on aluminum wire connections on ranges and dryers. In my experience anyway.


pACE2-1127168reg.jpg
 
Interesting Mark, I suspect Ace is NOT the place for that product. Where would one buy that?

Adrio said:
remember, if the conductivity of that stuff is good enough then you may be introducing a conductive path between (what are suppose to be) separate conductors in a multi wire connector.
Click to expand...

Point well taken Adrio. Precautions would have to be taken.

Tinkerman
 
I think I bought it at Home Depot, but Ace should have it. I lifted the picture from the Ace website.
 
Yes you are correct. Coppa Slip has no place in any electrical circuit as it is designed to be an anti seize compound. It contains Micro particles of Copper and Lead to provide Slip between two rubbing netal surfaces.. While it may be conductive it is not marketed as a conductive grease abd should not be used as such.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
TRMark said:
Wouldn't this work better than a dielectic. It prevents oxidation and promotes conductivity. It is used primarily on aluminum wire connections on ranges and dryers. In my experience anyway.

Well while it is not a Dielectric it is a Conductive grease, grease impregnated with conductibe particles, and if improperly handled could cause you more grief than peace,--Keoke


pACE2-1127168reg.jpg
Click to expand...
 
99% of all copper antiseizes are non conductive and are not recommended for use in electrical circuits. I use a conductive copper antiseize with anti corrosives that is excellent for these applications, but unfortunately can't sell it to individuals. It has eliminated all electrical/corrosion problems in my TR6. If I find a comparable product, I will let everybody know.
 
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