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Desperately seeking sympathy...

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I think I need to exercise more or something.

I started changing the front calipers and rotors on my 6 tonight. I'm putting vented rotors and the toyota calipers on. I'm about 1/2 way through side 1 - the new rotor is on the hub, and I'm waiting for the dremel I ordered to come tomorrow before massaging the dust shields to size.

It should be an easy job. It's far from demanding mechanically (I've built lego models as a kid that were harder). I used to fix up LBCs in college back in the UK for extra cash, so I should know what to expect.

One problem though - I can't remember when I've been so exhausted. I'm sure it used to be easier...

I've only unfastened 10 bolts, a castle nut and a couple of pipe connections. I swear every one was original - and frozen solid. I was standing on a breaker bar to free the caliper bolts and they weren't moving.

The bloody dust cap on the hub nearly drove me mad, I was trying for ages to "gently drift" it off. Just as I decided to destroy it and order more, it came away in my hand as easy as you could wish for.

I'm dreading starting the other side, but couldn't deal with the lack of braking much longer. It's hilly in places here, and it gets scary when you aren't sure if you'll stop at the bottom.

The weather has been crappy all week so I didn't even get to drive it. Please someone tell me it gets better, or invent a time machine so I can be young and stupid again...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif

ok I'll stop whining now
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The job isn't any harder. You're just getting older mate! Actually, it is hard work to undo seized fasteners, etc.....the more so when you don't want to destroy something. You do have my sympathy. Feel better now? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I remember working on my old Land Cruiser--every project always required bolt extractors, impact wrenches, the works (always replaced bolts, since they only seemed to come out in bits). The whole thing was rusted together where it wasn't rusted apart.

It was still the most fun I'd ever had. Driving that old heap was wonderful.

You will enjoy your auto life again, and your car will appreciate the attention. Hard, sweaty, frustrating work, but the driving is worth it.

-Drew
 
Yeah, this is why I finally bought air tools.
I'm sort of a purist and would prefer hand tools, but some jobs, (combined with my advancing age) are just too much strain.
My favorite tool is a 3/8" air ratchet and most of my sockets are 6 point.
Also, a 1/2" drive breaker bar and an 8 foot piece of pipe can work wonders! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

G'luck! Many of us have been there!
 
There was a time when it seemed the most used tool in my box was the nut cracker. Lately though I've been lucky, and that luck, combined with liberal doses of penetrating oil, have saved me from using the nutcracker much the last few years. There are times though when it's just quicker to destroy the damned thing and tear it out. One of the worst jobs IMO is trying to get out old rusted leaf springs, epsecially those front eye bolts. My last Mustang I didn't even bother trying, had a friend come over with a torch and we just cut them out.

I am intersted in that brake job you're doing though, can you snap a few pictures when finished? Also, what did you do with the connections from the lines to the calipers, did you need to cut off the fittings and reflare the lines with meteric ones or did you just use some type of adapter? I've seen this job written up in some type of Triumph publication a few years ago but haven't ran into anyone yet thats done it. I know the calipers are cheap and easy to get, but which model and year Toyota did you get them from?
 
The site you are thinking of is likely this one. Kudos to the chap who did all the 'real' work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

https://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.html

Moss also has installation notes for their "big brake conversion" - look in TR6>Brakes>Hydraulics>BigBrakeKit and click the "Here" to download their instructions.

Those calipers look a LOT like the ones I just bought, except I'm in for $500 total not $900, even buying the rotors and lines from Moss. (For 2 reasons - 1, I felt bad using their notes without giving a little something back, and 2, they ship faster - to me at least - than either of the other two). They are the most expensive of the three though.

The Moss instructions can be followed pretty much as is - use as a "brake fixing for dummies" guide, except that you will see that their stainless lines have a hard termination. I guess that's what costs the extra $400...

My calipers are from a 1980 Toyota 4wd Pickup (note the 4wd bit - the 2wd are different). Cardone P/N are 17820/17821 for rebuilt loaded calipers. I paid $221 (including core charges and shipping) for the pair. Core charges were $110 of that, so if you have a breakers yard near you, you might be able to get some back. If you can't beat the price I'll send you the site I got them from - it had pictures of the calipers, which is why I used it. (Took some of the uncertainty out of the ordering process)

I'm intending doing the rears too, but am still waiting for the Morgan back cylinders from VB.

For brake lines, I'm going to the local autoparts store to buy some stock hard lines. I'll bend them to suit as per the instructions on Lee's site. I think I can stretch to a pipe bender with what I saved if doing it by hand looks too dodgy...
 
Quote: Actually, it is hard work to undo seized fasteners, etc.....the more so when you don't want to destroy something.

[/ QUOTE ]


Do as I do with some of my projects (and golf)as I get older:
Lower your standards! Expect the worst and set your goal at getting one or two nuts broken/freed without damaging yourself or the car. That way, the likehood of success is higher, frustration is lower. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
You've got my sympathy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
Liberal doses of penetrating oil or the more modern equivalents (I use Quik by Kleen-Flo) sprayed on a couple of hours in advance is the trick.
I've had no problem with seized fasteners on my 6 by using this stuff, it's magic!
Oh, and I'm no spring chicken now either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
I dose the next parts I am removing days before I am to work on it. Plan ahead. I walk in the garage to get something else, and spray critical parts of my next project down with Mopar Rust Penetrant. Get yourself PB Blaster, or a professional level penetrant. Wd40 is fine for squeaks around the house, but not for 40 year old rusty English parts.
 
This may strike a chord with some. Others will really get a kick out of it. It depends on how well maintained your car was.

Before I start, EVERYTHING gets a shot of either brake cleaner, WD40 or both before a wrench or a socket goes near it. This tale of woe is AFTER that...

Just about everything that could go wrong has. Remember I'm trying to change the front rotors and calipers for the toyota truck ones, and the rear cylinders for the morgans.

I've had seized bolts. I've had sheared bolts that I've had to drill out. One was my own stupid fault - my torque wrench stopped working while I was tightening up the first caliper. I *thought* it was getting like hard work. Luckily it was a caliper bolt and you can get to both sides.

I had stripped bolts on the rotors (I mean totally stripped and not holding a darn thing, but still in there). Can you buy case hardened metric bolts by me on a Saturday - ymbj.

The rear brake pipes are a joke. The compression fittings were rounded to an almost perfect circle, and siezed to the point where all I could do was cut them off (thanks PO).

The 3 way valve (the one in the drivers side rear wheelwell) is properly fixed to it's bracket, but all the brake lines into it are seized, so when I try to unfasten one the whole thing moves, and any pressure will deform the lines. I was going to put an ss flex hose in to replace the rubber, but it's too much work - I'll end up doing every line to the back of the car. (Unless you have short wrenches or a lift, it's a real bugger to get to in there).

As it is I'm waiting for rotor bolts, caliper bolts and extra rear brake lines before I can do anything else now. The car is on stands and I can't drive it, so I'm a bit unhappy right now.

I reckon I'll have about 16 hours into what should be an hour a corner by the time I've finished. What a mess. Next time I'll order every bolt, every washer and every fitting that could attach to the one I'm changing out...

btw: For anyone contemplating doing this conversion, be prepared to either flare your own lines or be real nice to the guy in Carquest. You have to put a double flared metric fitting on one end, and a std thread with a bubble on the other. Try buying that one premade.

I ordered both types of brake flaring tool today. No way am I going through that again, I'll do them myself from now on. Looking at the state of the lines, I think I need to replace them all this winter. I can't tell you just how much I'm looking forward to that.

POs - don'tcha just love them...
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As youi get older you're supposed to make up the time with planning and experience...I know doesn't work for me either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I don't want to be that old.
If I *planned* things, I'd never have bought an old car...
 
Final Update

Well after a whole lot of drama, some skinned knuckles and a lot more parts than I had anticipated, I now have four new brakes.

I found out that the PO had already done the Morgan rear cylinder upgrade, so that was a bit superfluous.

The results are still quite amazing. After a few runs to bed in, I can lock all 4 wheels at 40 now. BFD you might say, mine does that and I didn't upgrade a thing. Great, but until I did this, my car wouldn't lock the wheels no matter what. At any speed. Under any circumstances.

Now the car stops straight and true and best of all I don't feel like it's a lottery as to whether I'll stop in time. I'm much happier.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Now I just have to replace the front hub when the new one arrives and I'll finally be done.
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Re: Final Update

[ QUOTE ]
........ and I'll finally be done.
....

[/ QUOTE ]
We will remind you that you said that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Re: Final Update

I meant for this one simple job only.

I ordered all the parts to restore/upgrade the suspension - nylatron bushings, new sway bars, springs, the lot.

Now having seen the amount of effort to do this change, I think that that little lot will be waiting until winter. I'm sure I'll be whining again when I start the 'fix'...
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