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Deck advice needed
- Thread starter JPSmit
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Pressure-treated or just "treated?" Difference. If treated, I'd put something (UV protectant or similar) down. Some of this depends on what you want the deck to look like when you are done. Do you want water to bead off it or just stay the same color for a few years?
I have an "Ipe" deck and even though it is 100 year wood, it needs cleaning (even sanding) every 2 years... and then re-oiling.
I have an "Ipe" deck and even though it is 100 year wood, it needs cleaning (even sanding) every 2 years... and then re-oiling.
coldplugs
Darth Vader
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Our deck is about 12 years old and is just starting to look shabby. It was stained when it was built and sealed every year or two using Thompson's or similar. I wanted to pressure wash it last year and went to rent a washer but they told me to ~never~ pressure wash a deck since it'd "open the pores on the wood". We painted it instead and we don't like the results.
I plan to pressure wash it soon and then stain it. We'll probably use a sealer again every year or so. It doesn't take long to apply with a sprayer.
(Not quite the same but we had great results pressure washing old cedar siding and re-staining).
I plan to pressure wash it soon and then stain it. We'll probably use a sealer again every year or so. It doesn't take long to apply with a sprayer.
(Not quite the same but we had great results pressure washing old cedar siding and re-staining).
thegoodbeamer
Jedi Warrior
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If you really want to preserve the wood I would reduce the oil stain maybe 25 percent for the first coat.For paint if the wood is now clean reduce the first coat by 50 percent.Be generous with the material.This is for oil based products
A common mistake when building a deck is trying to build and then paint or stain.A friend had an above pool.He asked me what do I do.I told him to put a couple of gallons of stain in a big round bucket.Stand the end grains in it for 15 minutes.Then stain all sides.Apply one more coat before assembling.Then one coat after as this will seal the nail or deck screws that gp just below the surface as this coat will seal the wood around the screws or nails.That was 25 years a go and it still is in good shape.Same as painting (not staining)well cured concrete.wash with a 15 percent solution of Muratic acid.When dry apply first coat reduced 50 percent
A common mistake when building a deck is trying to build and then paint or stain.A friend had an above pool.He asked me what do I do.I told him to put a couple of gallons of stain in a big round bucket.Stand the end grains in it for 15 minutes.Then stain all sides.Apply one more coat before assembling.Then one coat after as this will seal the nail or deck screws that gp just below the surface as this coat will seal the wood around the screws or nails.That was 25 years a go and it still is in good shape.Same as painting (not staining)well cured concrete.wash with a 15 percent solution of Muratic acid.When dry apply first coat reduced 50 percent
I just built a large, double-deck deck at my son's house in New Orleans. We used grade 1, kiln-dried pressure treated pine for the whole thing. We plan to let it age to a nice grey; no stain, no preservative. Saw a deck built out of the same material that was quite old, no signs of deterioration. The secret is the quality of wood. Not one of our pieces of lumber had a knot anywhere, very true, very staight. All hot-dipped galvanized or stainless screws. 2500lb joist hangers, etc. On the other hand, my brother-in-law in Northern Cal just finished a fancy-schmancy all-redwood deck, far less structural integrity. His stain is already coming off after 1 year. And the whole thing creaks when you walk on it. You can park a truck on mine and it won't bounce. Also, beware of products like Thompson's. There are far superior products out there.