Day One with wrench and BN1

[BN1L_156424]

So I pulled off all of my wheels and brake drums to figure out what was going on with the underside of this car. Here are my findings.

A) I do need to unsieze (probably rebuild) at least my front left brakes. The other brakes all had rubber dust guards. Does the moss repair kit do each of the cylinders in one drum? Do I need the repair kits to get the rubber gaskets?

B) Each of the bearing housings in the rear wheels have at least one stripped threading for the extension studs(there looked to be a failed weld holding some and I couldn't see if more were welded). This car has the early type 4 bolt hubs. One of the many people who admired the car as I laboring with it, claimed to have a 3000, and managed a volvo garage said that I can Heli-coil the stripped out threads. What is the proper threading for that heli-coil?

C) Almost all of the dust covers of the steering and front suspension are cracked, I guess I should replace them, but I know that is going to be a bear. Also most of the suspension bushings are dry and cracked.

D) I checked out the OD for the oil leak. It looks like its leaking around the adapter plate, I guess it's possible the rear seal.

The big questions that I have is about the stud threads (and cheaper nut source, front and rear as there is a hodge podge and I would like a single size) and the contents of the moss brake repair kits. Also how much of a bear is it going to be to replace the ball joint gaskets?

Thanks

Joshua

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Josh,
Glad you are making progress.

I would suggest that you call:
https://www.britishcarspecialists.com/
1-209-948-8767
They can give you some "real" guidance & will sell Moss parts if you wish.

----Check the bore diameters of your wheel cylinders. There were two different sizes on the early cars. 7/8" & 1".

----I believe that one kit does two front or two rear wheels. The cylinders are aluminum with a hard anodized bore. Any honing or surfacing will remove the hard surface & make them subject to rapid wear, corrosion. You may need to replace one or more of them. I suggest replacing or rebuilding all wheel cylinders and the master cylinder. I believe the repair kits include dust covers.
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"A) I do need to unsieze (probably rebuild) at least my front left brakes. The other brakes all had rubber dust guards. Does the moss repair kit do each of the cylinders in one drum? Do I need the repair kits to get the rubber gaskets?"
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----The rear wheel cylinders are held to the backing plates by a pair of interlocking spring clips which must be "unlatched" from each other before driving them out.
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"B) Each of the bearing housings in the rear wheels have at least one stripped threading for the extension studs(there looked to be a failed weld holding some and I couldn't see if more were welded). This car has the early type 4 bolt hubs. One of the many people who admired the car as I laboring with it, claimed to have a 3000, and managed a volvo garage said that I can Heli-coil the stripped out threads. What is the proper threading for that heli-coil?"
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----The early BN1 rear hubs had threaded in studs. Later ones pressed in from the back. This is a very critical part of the car. You can lose a wheel if things are not perfect. I doubt if there is a helicoil that will work. I certainly don't suggest welding. The rear bearings must fit very snugly in the carriers & seat at exactly the right depths. Again, I would consult with BCS as mentioned above. They may have some good used hubs. While you are at it, I would get a "correct" 8 point socket for the rear hub retainer nuts.
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"C) Almost all of the dust covers of the steering and front suspension are cracked, I guess I should replace them, but I know that is going to be a bear. Also most of the suspension bushings are dry and cracked. Dry & cracked bushings are not a big problem IF the working part is still intact. You are into a whole new game if you start replacing them. Better check the king pins & their bushings, front shocks, on & on."
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----For the dust covers, JC Whitney has a cheap but good "rod end puller" that is compact enough to fit in the tight rod end spaces. Cat. # 881770 I believe. https://www.jcwhitney.com
Hyundai has come very good rod end covers if you are not concerned with perfect originallity. Part # 56828-21010.
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"D) I checked out the OD for the oil leak. It looks like its leaking around the adapter plate, I guess it's possible the rear seal."
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----If it isn't leaking too badly, I would just leave it. A leak at the adapter plate can require a major operation. The rear seal can be replaced somewhat more easily, but is no picnic.
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"The big questions that I have is about the stud threads (and cheaper nut source, front and rear as there is a hodge podge and I would like a single size) and the contents of the moss brake repair kits. Also how much of a bear is it going to be to replace the ball joint gaskets?"
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----As I mentioned, this is no place to compromise. I would replace everything that is even remotely questionable. The rear stud nuts are a special tapered, self locking design. I wouldn't substitute. See above for a "joint separator".
Good luck,
D