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Dash Replacement Question

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chrisc

chrisc

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Forum newbie, first question....

I have an 80 LE that I currently have the dash cap on to cover the cracks in the top of the dash. I have seen that you can buy a replacement dash pad and replace the entire dash. Has anybody done this? What is the degree of difficulty and do you need to take the seats out, etc..to gain enough leverage to get up underneath the dash to unbolt it? Looks like a good winter project -- but taking the dash out of a later car ain't like taking the dash out of a metal dash car!
 
I always take the seats out of an MGB to work under the dash - that way I can lay down halfway comfortably! Not a hard project - at least with the 80LE you remove the dash wiring harness with the dash (a great improvement over earlier years)...biggest, most scary thing is cutting the holes in the new cover for instruments, etc.
 
The PO put a replacement MOSS dash in one of my 78's....Looks great, nice and fresh. I've used the dash caps before too though, and they're great for a quick fix.
 
Tony,

How hard is it to get at the bolts holding the dash on? Cutting the holes in the new dash doesn't scare me (it might once I start!). Do you need to disconnect everything to the gauges before you pull the dash out, or can you gain some leverage once the bolts are out to move the dash out slightly and remove the gauge connections?

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the BCF.
 
Welcome, great place to ask questions and get real answers.
 
On your car, there's a connector that allows you to remove the dash wiring harness along with the dash - so there's no need to disassemble anything to remove it....tiny hands are needed to get to the top bolts (I use 5/16" ratchet & sockets or small wrenches)....there's one bolt right above the vents that's hard to get to without removing the vents/radio console but other than that, its just slow, cussin' work.
 
Cussin' being the operative function here. Once it's off, the replacement is pretty straight-forward.

Before you disassemble it, you'll want to examine the replacement overlay. If the '80 has some of the same internal features as my '73 has, you'll find some voids that should (not "must") be filled with foam blocks salvaged from the old one. This is really easy - and self-evident once you see it - but you should just plan for it in advance.

Once it's out of the car you'll need to remove the instruments from the front. You may want to remove the sub-harness as well (see below).

You'll be making the cutouts for the instruments, which is good because you can be sure it's done right. Just remember the main rule: Measure twice, cut once. The biggest problem you're going to have could be related to this. If you cut too much you'll have obvious gaps with insulation or metal showing through. If you cut too little, you can end up fighting with some of the instruments, lights, or switches just to get them to fit. (Snug is better, though.)

Two hints: When you have the old vinyl off, and before installing the new one, paint the backside of the metal panel a bright white. This will make it easier to see things next time you have to go behind the dash when it's reinstalled. Just don't paint over the wiring sub-harness. This is where removing it comes in. Conversely, you can temporarily wrap it in wide masking tape and remove the tape when the paint dries.

The second hint concerns reinstalling the dash to the frame. As Tony noted, you have six nuts holding the dash to the frame, plus a couple more down low. This is way over-engineered for this application. What a lot of folks to is to place a 1/4" rubber grommet over the middle 4 of the 6 upper mounting studs before reinstallation. The ones on the far left and far right (and two on the bottom) are used to secure the dash in place. The grommets on the middle ones help to buffer and secure the dash in place. Next time you have to remove the dash, the cuss factor goes way down.

This is a good DIY job, and the final results will be outstanding. It's one you'll be glad you did.

R.
 
Ditto on the care in cutting out the holes. I found it comforting to cut out the speedo and tach first, then fitting these instruments to position the new dash on the frame. A new sharp X-Acto number 11 blade is the tool after that. Before cutting the large openings, I scored the holes to center them in the depressions with a two point compass from a drafting set opened to the exact diameter of the instrument housings. The X-Acto knife worked well to follow the score lines. Go slow. With the two larger gauges in place, the metal frame openings serve to guide the knife blade for the rest of the components. I recall actually having to push and pull the new dash a bit to get the molded depressions properly positioned over the openings. Good luck!

Bill
 
Tony, Rick and "Wam", great comments and advice! I'm less reluctant to take this one now, although I wish my hands were more petite. If only my wife and/or daughters were interested in wrenching a little.....
 
Not sure what size the fasteners on that dash are, but when doing this job in past, a 1/4" drive 12" extension and a universal socket (not a socket ON a U-joint) has worked for me quite nicely. I have Snappy's set but the SEARS ones are just as good.

...just in case your family/friends are stuck for a Christmas gift for ya. MORE TOOLS! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
1/4" drive is only way to go, Doc!
 
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