• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

dash refinish

I am fitting a wooden dash over the original white painted one that was covered with fake stick on stuff back in the 70's by the PO. I got hold of an old one that had peeling lacquer, took it back to the veneer and then applied about 5 coats of Tung oil. Just fitting new lower crash pads and then I hope to install it this weekend.
 
Took me 3 years. Oh yeah, I built a garage and tried to help raise a family in between.
DASHCLOSEUP60.jpg


DSCF2094.jpg
 
BobbyD said:
Floyd,
Removing the dash itself is no big deal. Just label every wire and I even mark the back of the gauges showing what wire hooks up where. It might be easier with the driver seat removed as you spend a lot on time on your back in the driver foot well. I did it in a day when I replaced my dash https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Restoration_May_1999.htm. As to actually refinishing a dash.......well that depends on your woodworking and refinishing skills.

Why did you have to get on your back to change your wood dash? I just changed mine 2 weeks ago and all I did was remove the steering wheel so I wouldn't make any scratches on the new wood? I never had to get on my back once. I was able to do the whole job from driver's and passenger seats. Amazingly simple job after it was done. Looks harder than it actually is.

IMHO

.
 
Well.....I think I will just wait and move this project to the "next winter list" like many other I didn't get to this year. I agree with many of you that this is not a project you want to rush. THe skills are there, the time ...there's the problem. I enjoy my early morning weekend cruises with my coffee too much. Even if I would start now before "TR season" comes I may still not make it. I and want to be there, cruising the first day it comes. I appreciate all the responses and advice. Thanks much......
 
PeterK said:
Mark, Maybe it was (Watco brand) Danish Tung Oil? It soaks in and allows multiple coats to build up a real nice finish. I use it on hand made furniture and refinishing antiques. Probably not the best for UV protection but easy to touch up. When it starts to look a little bad, just polish on another layer, and rub rub rub!

English Walnut is also listed as original dash material for TR4As. Just a little different color and grain from American Walnut.

* * * * *

Dale, I made a set of custom gunwales from teak for a friends island hopper. I loved the smell when I milled it, just like frest cut leather.

Thanks, Peter. Danish Tung Oil. That's the ticket. Good stuff, done correctly it makes the dash finish a smooth as silk and not glossy.
 
eejay56,

When you say "cleaned the paint off the gauge rims and they are nice pretty chrome", do you mean the flat black on the inner side of the rims? My 73 TR6 has gauge rims which are chrome on the outer side of the rim and painted on the inside. I would love the look even more if I could get the black paint off without damaging what was underneath. Any pics? What did you use to remove the flat black?
Thanks.
 
It's still hard to see in this but yes in the earlier pics you can see the chipped and gross flat black paint. I used a rag with some lacquer thinner (very carefully because the dash was done and reinstalled) and this nice chrome appeared.
spitfire012.jpg
 
Back
Top