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Cylinder head installation..

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mechwanabe

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Hello BCF forum..: I believe have all I need to start reassembling the cylinder head on my 66 AH.. My plan is have two cylinder head studs as guides ( having all the studs in place will make it harder to align and position the head on the block ). Once the cylinder head is on the block, I will insert the remaining studs.. Is there a problem with my plan?.. One reason doing it like this is because the in/exh manifolds are attached to the cyl. and the weight makes it very difficult to maneuver and position precisely.
Any ideas, suggestions, tips, anything that will help and will keep me from screwing up is very appreciated..
Thank you!! :smile:
 
Yep that should work out ok for you.---keoke
 
I think it's a bad idea. First, why would you try to install the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached? The head alone weighs 91 pounds. Secondly, the studs should all be screwed down first to make sure they go in smoothly without hanging up on any dinged up threads. Thirdly, having all the studs in place will more accurately locate the head gasket.
One more bit of advice. Do not torque the head studs as the manual states. I think it says 20#. The best method is to oil the threads and screw them down finger tight. Make sure all threads are clean and burr free - on both ends of the studs. You will get better torque results.
 
I agree with Richard. First make sure the stud holes are clean. I run a thread chaser or tap into the holes to make sure the threads are clean and then I clean the deck of the block. Next I run a die down the threads of the studs to make sure they are clean and then I seat them all. I then double nut the studs on the top threads and tighten them in. Then I install the head gasket and then drop on the head with the help of either an assistant or an engine hoist.
 
Thank you all for the advise... The reason for removing/installing the heads with the exhaust/intake manifold is because there are a few nuts for the manifold flanges that are nearly impossible to get. They are in the under side and I just could not get to them.
I agree, the head and the manifolds are very heavy and I am using a winch attached to a beam in my garage to lift and position.
I did not do any work this past weekend, family event!! But will have all next week off.. Will keep you informed!!
The fun continues..
 
Yes I could, but I have no reason to remove them if I am only replacing the head gasket. Or is there a reason why I should remove them? I was thinking about wrapping the exhaust with heat wrap in hopes of alleviating the heat generated etc..
 
I've read all the posts here and I do agree with most. But I have to say with the head off you really should clean the head and block to remove all grime and build up around the studs and water holes. After cleaning them use a tapered drill to chamfer the holes a bit, the studs will go in much easier.I use an air grinder with the little scrubby's attached, does a great job. I also clean inside the combustion chambers and grind them down smooth. If necessary you can even clean the tops of the pistons and the mating surfaces of both manifolds prior to replacing gaskets. Don't forget the thermostat housing also.

It'll pay off in the end.
 
mechwanabe said:
Yes I could, but I have no reason to remove them if I am only replacing the head gasket. Or is there a reason why I should remove them? I was thinking about wrapping the exhaust with heat wrap in hopes of alleviating the heat generated etc..
Click to expand...

When I go through the trouble of taking off a big part, I take the opportunity to replace or renew all the items I can easily reach with the big part off. I'd replace the manifold gaskets and inspect and maybe remove and replace the manifold studs from the head. While I'm at it, I'd likely replace the manifold washers and nuts. I'd probably replace the studs on the exhaust manifold (the ones that attach the exhaust system to the manifold) and get new exhaust header gaskets. I'd go through the carbs at this time and probably do a minor or major rebuild if they showed any wear or seeping. I'd take a very close look at the tappets, valves, valve springs, rocker shaft, etc and replace any worn parts or have a machine shop do a valve job. Most importantly, I'd have a machine shop make sure the cylinder head is flat so that my new head gasket does not leak just like my old head gasket...Think about it.
 
You are all right about doing other work while accessible and will consider it.. Thank you for the great advise you are giving me..
 
Mechwanabe,
You will not be able to wrap the stock exhaust manifolds to reduce any heat. They are not configured in such a way that will allow you to wrap them. A better solution is to have them ceramic coated. It will coat both the inside and outside of the manifolds and will keep more of the heat inside the manifolds. Be sure to have your downpipes coated as well. An additional reason for ceramic coating the manifolds is that it will reduce the heat transfer into the carburetors - and give you much better performance.
 
I'm not going to restate what has already been said,,,,but,,, when you HAVE screwed all the studs into the block with a little 30w oil on the threads you should wipe off the excess oil that comes back up the threads and sits on the block surface before you fit the head gasket.

www.britishcarmechanic.com
 
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