Crypt Car needs a part

[Tinster]

Well, Wendy and I had a fabulous 12 day
cruise down to Venezuela and reurn- island hopping.
The Crypt Car stewed in the garage with no attention
paid and no $$$ poured into him.

The mega$$charge from TRF was waiting when we arrived
home. Wendy now on-line spending in-kind $$ for Spring vacation. LOL
2 video clips of our trip. Yes, the train did in fact
derail under us.
https://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/?action=view&current=MVI_2167.flv

https://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/?action=view&current=MVI_2674.flv

The Crypt car is going into another crypt for major
professional work next week. I am guessing two months
time what with the holidays.

I need some help with a part. As many already know,
the Crypt Car's PO jerry rigged most everything.
I have a Rube Goldberg brake master cylinder off
some jap car.

I bought the TRF correct master cylinder but I cannot
locate the 2 pre-bent brake fluid pipes. TRF, VB nor
Moss sells them pre-bent. None on E-bay either.

I asked around here on the island and was pointed to
Home Depot to purchase the bending tools, pipes,
flares, nipples, etc. I would not trust my life to
anything Home Depot sells. Plus I have no mechanical
skills to bend pipes or make flares. I don't know what
size of anything to purchse.

So does anyone have an old pipe set lying around I could purchase? Or the tools and skills to make a set I could purchase?

Or- is it possible to make the 2 connections with braided stainless steel hose? If so, what size and connectors do I need to purchase. I can have them made locally at a hydraulic hose shop.

Here are the pipes I need. Thanks much, as always
dale

 

[bash]

Hi Dale

I think that the connections are 3/8x24 and 7/16x20 (the connections at the rear of the master cylinder and front of the PDWA are 7/16x20, as I recall). Note that the above diagram is a bit misleading - the pipes cross, so front of M/C connects to rear of PDWA. I know you can get the lines as part of the whole set from Moss in CuNi, which is fairly easy to bend either by hand or with a $5 bending tool. Moss has a 20% off offer on at the moment as well. You might be able to get the lines individually from the maker (www.automec.co.uk) but shipping from UK is a bit steep (shipping might be a concern to you anyway all the way down there!).

I don't see a problem with using braided hoses, but I suspect that someone will explain why it is a terrible idea!

Hope that helps.
Alistair

 

[JPeter]

Nothing technically wrong with a few more flex lines in the system - you already have some in the brake and clutch plumbing.
Your local hydraulic hose shop will probably make a set of steel lines using steel brake line if you just ask them. From an ease of assembly viewpoint the steel brake lines and their flare nuts might be easier to put together.

 

[Brosky]

Dale,

I've just contacted a guy parting out a couple of TR6's near Boston. If he has any, I'll pick them up and send to you. More to follow.

Paul

 

[RobT]

TRF dosen't sell them pre-bent? That's odd - I bought a set from them 2-years ago. They bend them in-house, using their own templates. Cost an extra couple of bucks, but worth it. I'd give them a call and ask for someone in their technical dept.

Rob.

 

[Tinster]

Muchas gracias Paul!!

If you enjoy mountain grown coffee, I'll
send you a bag of the really deep aroma coffee
we save for local consumption.

d

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Rob but I did call them and they
told me they no longer bend the pipes.

d

 

[philknight]

Dale,
Try Classic Tube. If you aren't in a hurry they make them in regular or stainless steel. I got their stainless fuel lines and they were excellent. Phil

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Dale,

Enuf cruising around the warm parts of the world, okay! Get back to work on the Triumph!

Check out www.classictube.com

I know they sell complete brake line kits in a choice of stainless steel or OEM steel. Not sure it they sell individual items like you are seeking. (However, perhaps you need to look closely at all the other brake pipes on the car anyway. They do corrode and get damaged. If two have been replaced by a previous owner, what's the condition of the rest of them?)

Check out Classic Tube's online catalogs (pdf). Most Triumph models are listed. They also have replacement fuel pipes, stainless braided hoses, etc., etc.

I can't find the name or a link, but there is also someone out there on the Internet who sells just the correct fittings for LBCs, too. That's all you really need, since the pipes are standard stuff you can pick up cheap (OEM steel) at any local auto parts store. Sometimes it means buying a ready-made pipe (even if the end fittings aren't right) that's a little long, replacing the fittings as needed, re-flaing and then bending to fit as needed. Not a big deal, most shops have the tools and knowhow, if you are concerned about doing it yourself. (Note: All brake work is safety critical and should be done carefully and correctly! In fact, just a guess here, liability issues might be why Moss stopped making up and selling individual brake pipes themselves.)

I can't speak with much authority about TR6 specifically, but some other TRs use a combination of standard flared pipe ends and so-called "British bubble" ends. The "bubbles" are essentially half a flare, and are usually used wherever the pipe connects to a female fitting. What I mean by "half a flare" is that the first step of forming a flare is done on the end. But, the second step which inverts the very end to form a standard flare is skipped. The result is a "bubble" like end on the pipe.

Standard flares are typical on Triumphs when the pipe connects with a male fitting.

Either type of end can be made with most common flaring tools, but a mechanic who is unfamiliar with British cars might not know about the "bubble" type end. Again, I can't say this is the case for certain on TR6, it's just something to watch for if you end up making your own brake pipes or having a shop do it.

If you end up making your own, or buying a set, let me offer a couple pointers about the different types:

The "Kunifer" or copper/nickel pipes are about the easiest to work with: to shape, cut, reflare, etc. This type does come all rolled up and needs to be straightened, but that's not a big deal. The last I heard, US DOT doesn't recognize this type of brake line material for use on domestically manufacturerd new cars. However, it's used widely in Europe and elsewhere, both OEM and aftermarket.

OEM steel type (coated to delay corrosion) are a little harder to work with, but are the cheapest and are still doable by most shadetree mechanics. Most often this type pipe is sold in straight lengths, sometimes without ends, but usually fitted up with standard ends (so might require changing to make them work on an LBC). Bulk materials might be sold rolled, but shorter lengths might be straight.

Stainless steel pipes are the longest lasting and best looking, but are the most expensive and hardest to work with. Cutting and flaring stainless pipes requires special tools that are quite expensive, because the material is harder than the mild steel or Kunifer types. S/S kits often come pre-shaped and ready to install. Some longer runs might be rolled and require straightening. Pre-formed pieces are harder and more expensive to ship. Bulk S/S materials come both in rolls for longer pieces and as shorter straight pieces.

FYI, rolled materials can be straightened by pulling it through a padded block of wood in a vice. Overbend it a little, to get it as straight as possible, before beginning to shape it to fit the car. (Keep any old pipes you remove to use as a fitting and bending guide, until the new ones are shaped and installed.)

 

[Brosky]

Found your lines. Check your personal email.