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Tinster

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crypt car up-date

Well Paul,

I'm hoping that with 60 years experience now behind me,
I might just win the Endurance Battle with Crypty.

Update: 1. Car dead in the garage but likely a drained
battery - maybe another bad condenser can? Won't start.

2. This morning arrived a 1957 Chevy glass bowl fuel filter
that I modified with a built-in magnet to pick up rust dust
in front of the carbs. "MADE IN AMERICA!!" I've got a 30
micron in-line filter before your fuel pump.

3. As per Banjo's advice, I went to a local speed shop this
AM and asked about purchasing a used aluminum fuel cell from
wrecked race cars on the south side of the island. The lad
put out word that I'm in the market for a 10 to 12 gallon one.

4. I've got two extra sets of points and 2 coils. I'm going to
place an order for 10 condenser cans to go with them. I used
my last spare and they seem to be a weak component in all Thriumphs.

5. BUT!!!! The innards of the swimming pool filter barrel
need changing out pronto. An every two year, 2 day project.
Mighty nasty inside even with backflushing.

HEY! I'm at zero miles driven without a breakdown so things
can only improve. I'm rebuilding my traveling repair shop
in Crypty's trunk. I'm hoping to get the car operational and
attempt another test drive this week.

later gator,

dale
fuelfilter.jpg
 
Re: crypt car up-date

hey Youngster?

good headway on the filter and fuel tank progress.

A thought on the condensors. I do not have the Bentley in front of me(actually it's out at my storage yard) but check the electrical section and see if you can find the capacity of the condensor. Possibly on the spec pages in front of the distributor section.It will be listed in farads. If not see if Jeff can come up with it.

Reason why, is, a condensor is a condensor, is a condensor.
Once you find the capacity and approximate sizing you can go to MSD and purchase one of theirs. Their quality is usually extremely good. Also Standard Blue Streak in their catalogs used to have a section on condensor size and capacity.


So the condensor can be a non Triumph item and work very well.

I still recommend the Allison/Crane ignition and a MSD box backup. That way you'll never have ignition generation problems again.(possibly cap and rotor) but no ignition supply problems.
 
Re: crypt car up-date

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'm going to place an order for 10 condenser cans to go with them. [/QUOTE]

I would make it an even dozen..... :driving:
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Dale,

I think that filter alone will take care of your issues. Don't install any filters at the carbs until you try this one out alone.

JMHO.....and that thing brings back memories of cars and days gone by...sigh.....
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Dale, I beg you forgiveness of totally stealing your post. But,I really do (really) want to finish the 6 someday and that last stumbling block I have encountered I would like to get help from the folks on this board. I need a prefilter for the electric fuel pump that is mounted in the rear. I want it to attach to the area where the PI fuel pump attaches.,the box deal on the drivers side. There is a nice hole and I can attach something there. It has to be small enough to fit behind the board there.
Any one?

By the way I need pictures.
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Bentley says it's a 0.2 Microfarad. Probably need pretty high voltage (1 KV) those spikes are pretty large!!
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Dale, there are 2 mid 70's red 6's for sale up here. One for 10K and one for 14 K interested?
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Tomster said:
Dale, there are 2 mid 70's red 6's for sale up here. One for 10K and one for 14 K interested?
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #CC0000">Thanks Tom but I've got my hands full and my
checkbook empty from one TR6. One is enough for me.

I installed the 1957 Chevy, in-line ,fuel filter with rust magnet
this morning. Car would not start. I'm thinking I have a worn out
battery from so much cranking over the past 18 months or so.

d</span>
 
Re: crypt car up-date

tdskip said:
Tinster said:
I'm thinking I have a worn out
battery from so much cranking over the past 18 months or so.

d
Click to expand...

It won't turn over or it won't start?
Click to expand...

won't spin- dead battery-not even a click
 
Re: crypt car up-date

tdskip said:
Is the battery juiced up Dale?

Do you have a trickle charger on it at night?
Click to expand...


<span style="color: #000099">I purchased a trickle charger yesterday.
This morning the car started on the second attemp.
I let the engine warm up to temperature and shut it off.

I'll try again this afternoon and see if the charge held.

regards,

d </span>
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Dale,

Just an FYI. A trickle charger may take a full 24 hours to bring a dead battery back. The only way to know if it will last is to fully charge it, then have it properly load tested.
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Or use a hydrometer.
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Tinster said:
I let the engine warm up to temperature and shut it off.
Click to expand...


This is why your car fouls plugs. These cars are meant to be driven, not left idling in your driveway.
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Brosky said:
Dale,

Just an FYI. A trickle charger may take a full 24 hours to bring a dead battery back. The only way to know if it will last is to fully charge it, then have it properly load tested.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #660000">Thanks, I plugged it in for an additional 6 hours of charge.
How does one load test a battery? What is a hygrometer test?

PeterK- I know you are correct about the fouled plugs. Would you kindly
inform my car to quit breaking down so ofter and thus enjoy cleaner plugs?

Nice day here at 88*F with cool ocean breeze.

regards,

dale

</span>
 
Re: crypt car up-date

I have a small solar trickle charger $20.00 that works on NON dead batteries
Good if you think you going to be away from the wheeels for a while
 
Re: crypt car up-date

Tinster said:
How does one load test a battery? What is a hygrometer test?
Click to expand...
load testing is done by hooking up a volt meter and a "load" basically a heating coil and seeing how much the voltage drops.
A Hygrometer test it a tester which checks the chemical state of the battery. It is that thing you used to see at gas stations which sucks in a bit of the battery acid and you count how many balls are floating.
You don't need to buy either of these testers.
 
Re: crypt car up-date

"Side Glances" author Peter Eagen describes a Hygrometer as "An efficient way of transferring hydrochloric acid from a car battery to the drawer of your toolbox."
In your case Dale, a load test will tell you more. Any store that sells car batteries should have a VAT (Volt Amp Tester) machine, or at least a handheld "carbon Pile" load tester that they can use to test your battery in under a minute.
 
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