• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Crush sleve NLA, whattaya do?

Share this page

G

Guest

Guest
Guest
Offline
I've been fighting a leaking pinion yoke on my car for 7 years. Three seals and a speedy sleeve later, it still leaks. I pulled a diff from a parts car and put that in. The pinion yoke was a little more than hand tight. I tightened it to 140 ftlbs but it sems REALLY stiff. Moss and VB no longer have the crush sleeve and I'm sure this one is too tight (it gets really hot).

Does anyone else sell it, what are you guys doing for new crush sleeves?
 
Ya may have been a bit overzealous at 140 ft/lb, Billy. Too late now, but most times a 100 ft/lb retorque will hold the nut and not shift the original crush tube appreciably. I've run into the same issue of non-availability. No good idea where to turn.
 
I have a bag of shims I have saved over the years.
Find one that just fits over the splines of the pinion shaft, install it, and re-tork.
Thinnest one you have.

I've done that for years.

My old Ford has not had them available for at least 40 years.

Dave
 
I agree with the good Doctor!! I've replaced several seals and never retorqued to the original specs. The original specs are for crushing the tube not because that is what is needed to keep things tight. 100# ought to do it and better a little low than a teardown without parts to fix things correctly. I suppose 110 would'nt hurt. I don't remember exactly what I went to. Just a "good enough" I suppose.
KA.
 
so, could my whine potentially be cured by loosening and re torquing to a lower number?
 
Don't think so---crush washer has a new dimention. Disassembly looks to me as the only way. Either shim the pinion as mentioned by Dave or adjust the crown wheel. Lots of measuring and use of transfer pigment I believe. I've only done it once and still had noise though good life and not to a brit car.
Maybe someone on the list knows an expert at this you could send it to if there is no one locally.
KA.
 
Shimming at this point is about all you can do. Just be a bit 'conservative' on that tightening torque! :wink:
 
I'm with the Dr. and TOC as well. A thin shim if needed.

On the torque side, just sneak up on the needed torque. I don't think I ever get close to the 140#'s in the manuals. Usually closer to the 60 to 75 range. Just keep twisting the flange and checking the feel. You'll know if you tighten it up too much. I weld up a lot of diffs for racing and the process includes a complete tear down, cleaning, re-assembly with a new seal. Often with the older diffs and the solid spacer, a shim is the only choice you have - especially when mixing gear sets and housings. I like a little Loctite red on the first few threads of the pinion. Just enough to help the lock washer do its thing. Besides, racing does impart some extra stressers. I've seen a few diffs go to the great beyond because the pinion nut backed off. My 5.38 went to the great beyond that way during a hill climb. The fella who borrowed it would love to find a replacement for me.

If someone reading this thread decides they just have to have a NLA crush sleeve, let me know. I have a few NOS of those rare bits. A long ago purchase of an old MG/Mini race team's left overs. I rarely need a new one.

HTH,
Mike Miller
 
Spridget64SC said:
I'm with the Dr. and TOC as well. A thin shim if needed.

On the torque side, just sneak up on the needed torque. I don't think I ever get close to the 140#'s in the manuals. Usually closer to the 60 to 75 range. Just keep twisting the flange and checking the feel. You'll know if you tighten it up too much. I weld up a lot of diffs for racing and the process includes a complete tear down, cleaning, re-assembly with a new seal. Often with the older diffs and the solid spacer, a shim is the only choice you have - especially when mixing gear sets and housings. I like a little Loctite red on the first few threads of the pinion. Just enough to help the lock washer do its thing. Besides, racing does impart some extra stressers. I've seen a few diffs go to the great beyond because the pinion nut backed off. My 5.38 went to the great beyond that way during a hill climb. The fella who borrowed it would love to find a replacement for me.

If someone reading this thread decides they just have to have a NLA crush sleeve, let me know. I have a few NOS of those rare bits. A long ago purchase of an old MG/Mini race team's left overs. I rarely need a new one.

HTH,
Mike Miller
Click to expand...


Wow, if you have one...could you do a tech drawing of it?

m
 
Along with dimensions,it'd be good to know what the material really is. "Steel" is a wide range of things metallurgically speaking, y'know. :wink:

...tho I suspect it to be in the "mild steel" category...
 
Since there is a lot of interest in these NOS parts, I'll speak with a fellow LBC enthusiast about making an AutoCad@ drawing of the part. Maybe between the two of us, we can figure a way to make an equivalent from locally available materials.

Will address the PMs and interest. Got the April 15 event, day work and the much preferred race preparation to contend with as well as family obligations during the Easter breaks.

Mike Miller
 
Back
Top