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Crossmember modification for DW Super Damper

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R

robcadle

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Hello,

I'm heading down the path of restoring my dad's BT7. I'm planning a 'fast road plus' engine build (basically one notch below full race) and plan to use the Denis Welch super damper on the crank. Two questions:

1) Any feedback on the Super Damper (I've seen several endorsements here)
2) Can someone who has installed this part give me some detailed instructions on the crossmember modification required?

The car is on the rotisserie now so I'd like to get all the frame modification instructions to the shop this week.

I found this image: https://www.ahexp.com/phorum/file.php?8,file=1346,filename=cutout_for_damper.jpg which is helpful but I'd really like some dimensions if anyone has them.

Thanks in advance,
Rob Cadle
 
Rob

I have installed one on my BJ7 and the cross member does not need altering.

When you install it would help to warm it up, I think that the instructions tell you to do that anyway. I boiled mine but you can use a hot air gun and warm it up that way.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Thanks for the quick feedback, Bob. I wonder if DWR says minor modification is required due to car/car variation.

Are there any opinions about DW Super damper versus the PRO/RACE SFI damper? I’m willing to pay the higher price for the DWR damper if it is better, but if not I’ll avoid the hassles of importing a part and go with something I can order Stateside.

Thanks,
Rob
 
Rob

I Just looked at the DW web site and also my receipts. I do not have the two part one which is really for race engines, it is another type by B&M bought through DW and costs around ÂŁ295. Thus my original statement may be wrong. Best bet is to contact DW and seek their advice. The unit I bought is superior to the original and is good enough for the roads.

:cheers:

Bob
 
John Turney said:
ProRace says theirs is good to 18,000 RPM.
Click to expand...

John T - Wonder if there's any benefit to those of us who observe the factory red line.

Rob - you'll probably need a turned-down socket to fit the crank nut inside the smaller deeper opening on the race damper. Randy Forbes posted pictures of his in an earlier thread.
 
Rob

I have just found the installation instructions - My damper is by Pro/Race and yes, even this damper required something to be done with the retaining nut not the socket as I recall, thinking about it Rawles turned down the end of the nut to fit inside the recess in the damper. Also I was told to torque it up beyond the 95 lbs/ft recommended as they tended to work loose for some reason - whatever type of damper you choose - check with DW what the torque should be.

Also hang on to your original damper it can help to centralise the timing chain cover when installing it over the crankshaft, as it slips on much easier than the new one will.

Steveg is correct you have to include the damper if you are balancing the engine - Plus all the things that are connected to the crankshaft - Flywheel, clutch, the oil thrower, timing chain sprocket, washers and woodruff key at the front end - the whole 9 yards in fact. You should also check the rev limit that they recommend as well. I had mine balanced through a third party and as a result did not get that information. However, I have never taken the old girl up to the red line so it really does not matter for me, I guess that there will be less ware are stress on the moving parts as a result of the balancing.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Thanks for all the tips.

Here are a couple of images of the car, for everyone's amusement. The first is the car parked at my parents house, as it was when I took delivery from my dad (after sitting in his garage for 40 years). The second is a picture of the car as it is today. Sometimes you have to go back to move forward....

IMG_4182.jpgPicture1.jpg
 
Hi Rob, If you are going to modify the crossmember, I suggest you consider making a removable one instead. Cut off the original one just inboard of the radiator mounting holes, weld caps across the open ends and make a replacement offset to the front to give more clearance for the damper. The other advantage is that you can now open up/work on the front of the motor without having to disconnect things and jack it up. This is a common modification for racers, as it allows changing cam & cam timing in situ as well as replacing seals, gaskets, timing chain, etc.
IMG_1404.jpgIMG_1400.jpg
Dave
 
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