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TR4/4A Crack in floor at sill mounts

TRMark

Jedi Knight
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Thinking of placing a piece of heavier gauge steel underneath sill mount and plug weld through both layers. Is this the best way to repair? There are two isolation pads so I can remove one and keep the same mounting height. Or, is this worth fixing. Occurs at three of the mount locations. Did not tell the wife her side was cracked near the seat mount area.





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So I loosened the body mount bolts and jacked up the body. The problem is the crack is from the metal being thin from rusting between the sill and the body. So looks like I will have to remove the sill mount and add some metal to both. yuck
 
Its not like the tub will ever fly up off the frame or fall thru to the grd but a bigger heavier patch should work fine. Cut all or as much you of the rusted metal out. Weld in the new patch and use some J B weld over the seam area to smooth it out.
Marv
 
How about a 3/4 inch L shape bracket 5 or 6 inches long and hammer it in the corner and weld it. Even spot welds would hold. JB or seam sealer will take care of leaks if you do top and under before bolting it down.

Wayne
 
If too thin to weld and if welding is something you would rather wait for. You can pop rivet sheet metal to sheet metal and use one of new tuff products like POR 15 fill stuff and paint, or some of their cousins. I was taught if you drill like 3/16 hole at the end of the tear of the sheet metal, that will stop the tear/rip.
 
What I ended up doing is cutting out the thin stuff and welding some 18g. Also installed a 16g plate under the sill plate above the mounting shims, eliminating 1 shim. The welds will be mostly covered by the large washers and sealant. An embarrassing small job compared to what others are doing. The project started as simply peeling the car so I could paint it, fortunately it does not need a total restoration just a few little patches like this. It is interesting what you find after removing interior bits and fenders on a car that looks sound but a bit tired.
 
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